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gameboy lcd+raspi upgrade
by：KingKonree
2020-04-14
Hi all!
After a long time
I decided it was time to post my first structure.
I like retro stuff very much. gaming.
I have built a complete
The virtual pinball size that runs Hyperspin, which is probably my next note.
I am also upgrading a final lap driving cabinet in my early 90 s to become moregame machine.
Here I will show how I will be an old non
Nintendo Game Boy original and installed these parts :-3.
5 \"320x240 LCD with drive PCB-Raspberry Pi (Model A)-
Custom button PCB-1x 18650 Li-Ion cell-USB Li-
Ion charger-3. 7V to 5V DC-
DC Converter-
Stereo audio amplifier board
The stereo speaker si has seen other instructures do something similar, but I have set myself some challenges and the desired features I have built, including :-
With little or (ideally)
No changes-
Keep the USB port and HDMI port of the Pi accessible-
Hide SD card but also easy access-
Analog control of keeping volume
Keep the normal function of all front buttons and add buttons easily if needed
Upgrade the sound with an internal stereo speaker-
There are major components that are not pluggable (ie.
Not all things are hard.
Connect with each other)-
Keep some kind of visible power LED and charging status LED-
Make the Game Boy\'s case clean but reassemble very safely
Good operation-
About 2 hours per charge, I think I achieved all of these goals.
I wanted to pack two at first.
Ion batteries, but there is not enough room for 2nd batteries.
I have enough experience with Raspian/raspbcs to know how to start and run Pi using the Poppie.
But I\'m new here.
I have not dealt with the GPIO pins on the Pi before.
But I quickly found out how useful these pins are to not only control the game, but also navigate the simulator station menu.
Each button has a specific GPIO pin, and the software then lets the operation generate a key as defined in the configuration file.
Anyway, continue the work of the Department of Defense!
After checking other Game Boy mods on the Internet, I decided not to do it in a way that would allow me to achieve the results I wanted.
I spent a lot of time dealing with the location of the Pi in the Game Boy\'s case.
I have to make sure that it can be installed in a way that allows room for the LCD and its drive board.
Of course, I only have one chance to revise the case, and if I make a major mistake in judging how things will develop, then the case is over.
So I finally decided to cut the back shell, as I saw in the picture of drawing the cutting line.
A single USB port will be at the top, the soldering side of the Pi will be in front, and the HDMI port will be along the left side and a new hole must be cut for it.
I ended up completely removing the battery box as it was no longer needed, but I cut it off in a way that allowed the battery cover to be re-opened and inserted as usual.
This direction of the Pi has an SD card at the bottom, which is easily positioned in the old battery box area.
I could have removed the audio and composite video ports from the Pi, but it turns out that the video ports don\'t need to be removed.
As can be seen from a photo, I did cut off some shell plastic and make room for the audio port so the Pi would flush.
At that stage I planned to plug the cable into the port to get the audio, but I ended up just welding a 3pin header on the back of the Pi to get the audio.
In hindsight, I should remove the audio port and not cut the shell around it because it looks better.
The front opening of the LCD obviously has to get bigger so that all 3.
5 \"LCD can be seen.
This is done with Dremel.
A stable hand is needed.
Everything on the front of the box must make room.
The LCD will eventually be stuck in place with a very good double stick
Double sided tape rescued from the broken wholein-
A printer/scanner (
It holds the scanner glass in place).
By cutting the thin strips of this tape and lining it around the metal of the LCD, it is very firmly fixed in place.
Type of LCD (
From one of the many sellers on that popular auction site)
It was chosen based on the fact that I saw another construct using it for this purpose.
The one I used is called: 3.
5 \"TFT 320*240 color screen Car Rearview Mirror for reversing camera DVD.
I included a picture.
There are two problems with using this LCD.
I will list them here as well as the solution. 1.
It is designed to run 12v and I need it to run 5 v.
This is easily solved by connecting 5v to the point generated on the circuitboard.
I found a point on the board that had 5 V when it was running 12 v normally and then removed the parts that were not needed before that.
I made a mistake by removing the \"big\" inductor near the 12v input.
After connecting the external 5 v, the LCD will not light up with the Pi.
But it works fine when replacing the inductor. 2.
The motherboard that drives the LCD is about 10mm wider than the inside width of the Game Boy.
So I looked at how to trim it off the board to make it fit, but it won\'t spoil it in the process.
Call it pure luck, but as can be seen from the photos, I was able to remove enough things from both sides as well as some components and 3 buttons.
One photo shows the exact location where the sides are trimmed and the other shows it sitting behind the LCD.
With respect to this particular LCD, another thing to note is that it is almost as if the manufacturer provided the wrong drive board: the visible white flat cable is actually an extension of the cable to the LCD itself.
This white cable is about 8 cm long, allowing me to position the drive board exactly where I need it.
The video signal is connected using a thin coaxial cable of short length.
This is welded on the GND and AV1 on the driver\'s board. I fitted a 2-
The road Head connector goes to the other end and a matching 90 ° head is welded on the back of the PI of the video socket.
I installed it on an angle so the connector doesn\'t interfere with the volume control.
By removing all Game Boy electronics, I don\'t have a physical switch for 8 front panel buttons at the moment.
So I had to create a mini effectively
Replace the keyboard of the original motherboard.
This requires 9 wires (
8 button connection universal GND)
Go to the GPIO port of the Pi.
I was going to weld the wire to the GPIO pin but found an old PC back panel in my junk drawer with a parallel port that can be attached to the 26 pin head connectorPerfect!
All I need to do is remove the top of the plug, which makes it completely correct in height and drill out the pin 26 filled with plastic so that it is not installed in the wrong way.
This is then perfect for the GPIO header and allows access to each pin other than pin1 (3. 3V).
9 wires on the button board are trimmed to length, 2x5 v wires and 2 of the GND wires remain for a long time so they can be connected to 3. 7V -
5V lift plate power supply for Pi.
The wires are thin so I double them so they handle the current drawn by the Pi comfortably.
Instead of trimming all the excess wires, I left them for a long time and tied them in the heat shrink tube for later use
I\'m thinking of adding two other buttons as shoulder buttons for the game to use on Game Boy Advance if I end up adding these rom to the simulator station.
My keyboard was made by trimming some of the lines in the 6x8 cm pairs
Transfer contact and mounting hole position from front panel. The gold-
The color contacts that can be seen in the photos are made from the battery contacts of the scrapped old Nokia phone charger.
I tried using the bare pads on the PCB as contacts but did not establish a reliable connection with all the buttons.
They may be oxidized and stopped working over time. The gold-
However, the plating contacts work very well.
I added some sticks to the aluminum crust (
Laptop from scrap)
Behind the button on the carbon pad, because some pads are worn out, the work is not reliable.
By heating the aluminum sleeve while removing it from the old laptop (
Under the palm)
, It can be removed easily and the sticky stuff will stay on the deck.
It can then be cut into the size shown in the photo.
So fixed the pad with shield, I used some small
Measure the enameled wire copper wire, attach each contact on the motherboard to the 9 consecutive pads on the topmiddle.
This will make the connection cleaner when the wires from the GPIO connector are added.
This list shows how I can connect each button to each of the GPIO pins: head pin, GPIO, Game Boy feature, Keystroke7, 4, A, X 11, 17, B, Z start, enter 15, 22, select, Space 12, 18, down, 16, 23, right, right 18, 24, up 22, 25, left 14, GND ,-, -
Remember, this is for Type a, Rev. 2 Pi.
Go to places where you can find game and make files.
Then we need to edit the cfg file in the gamegame so that the GPIO can lock the required keystrokes as listed above, and then recompile it with Make.
Somewhere in this file, the comments talk about the \"Fire God nerve injection\" method to exit the game.
It includes pressing 2 buttons at the same time.
I found that in this case it is related to the select and start buttons.
It seems a little unfair-
Sometimes it takes a few times before it actually exits.
Because of this, I would like to add a button to the GPIO pin for this feature.
To increase the audio, I need the smallest amp I can find and some small but sound good speakers.
The amp I am using is a small stereo Class D powered by 5 v.
It is too small and I can hide it on the button board near the \"B\" button shown in a photo.
Later I covered it with some sticky plastic sheets.
The photo shows the coaxial cable welded to the l r input-
Later, since the coaxial cable was too thick to weld to the volume control, I gave up the idea.
I replaced the wires in the scrapped IDE hard drive cable and installed the 90 ° connector on the amp PCB.
I also installed a small 2-
The pin connector is embedded on the 5v wire of the amp board so that it can be inserted later.
The speaker I used was rescued from a Nokia N95 phone.
I have an N95 for years and it has the best/largest speaker in the mobile device I \'ve ever heard.
Therefore, the speaker part is cut off from the rest of the phone and then positioned as shown in the photo, fixed in place with a wire band welded on the board.
The tiny contacts on each speaker are then welded to the board and taken to the pads on the lower edge.
The speakers output the sound to the side of the chassis, so I drilled some small holes on both sides to let the sound output (
More will be introduced later).
I could have reused the Game Boy\'s original volume control, but found almost the same control on the old abandoned Toshiba laptop board.
A photo shows the control as well as part of the laptop motherboard I cut off to install it.
There is a perfect hole in the Game Boy box near the side opening, which makes my small volume control board screwed in place.
Then this is an issue of connecting the 2x GND wires, l r in and l r out to this board.
Wire for scrap IDE hard drive cable works well here.
To make it easier to connect on the Pi, I welded a 90 ° joint on the back of the Pi of the audio connector.
Then reuse 3-
Plug in from some old PC chassis front panel wiring.
The same is true on a small audio amplifier board, where L, R, GND can be connected from volume control.
Update 10/14: I just replaced the speaker with the speaker from Acer Aspire netbook.
I suspect that the amplifiers, while small, are too powerful for the N95 speakers and they start to be severely distorted.
Here is the exact type of speaker group I have installed now: the sound is much better now, and I also drill more holes for each speaker (
8 holes per side).
To install these Acer speakers, I completely removed the mounting flanges on both sides of them and placed several layers of very sticky double layers
Double sided tape on the back of each speaker is attached to the back of the corner at the bottom of the keyboard, then cut off the plug and weld the wires to the amp board.
I found some small boards with Mini on the Internet.
USB input and charging single Li-Ion cell.
The photo shows that there is a perfect place to install the board in the lower left corner of the first half of the box.
Although the connector has a hole cut and shape that can be poked, the board is tightly fixed in the appropriate position as it fits exactly between the wall and one of the internal pillars.
To make the charging led visible, I salvaged some light tubes from an abandoned cordless telephone base and cut it into shape to have it sit on the LEDs while also poking through
This works very well, it will emit bright red when charging, and it will turn green when charging.
You can also buy small boards with 3 pieces online. 7V from a Li-
Ion battery and lift it to 5v around 2A.
This one is perfect for the top near the USB port and is stuck in place with more dual stickssided tape.
The red LED on this board is then made to shine through a new hole in the front through another scrap tube. The 18650 Li-
The ion battery is obtained from a laptop battery that has never been charged.
I just randomly selected one of the 6 batteries in the battery, hoping it didn\'t fail.
If so, I have a lot more to try.
The battery I chose to charge in about 2 hours and gave me at least 2 hours of running time so it looks healthy enough.
I don\'t have a battery management circuit at this stage and I plan to add this circuit soon.
It will be a small round PCB with the same diameter as the battery.
It happens that there is enough space at the bottom of the case to accommodate this single cell of 18650.
Note how all cabling runs on one side of the chassis so it will be much easier to open and work later. The strange-
The search switch used to power all the equipment is something rescued from the old TV box.
I don\'t know what its rating is, but it seems to work well and is well installed in the narrow space of the Pi\'s vacant LAN socket location.
Ideally, I prefer the normal sliding switch, but there is not a small enough switch.
The switch is stuck by the super combination. sticky double-
Tape and hot glue.
I may need to find a way to screw in place if it gets stuck, but now it doesn\'t change.
All the wiring is done, all the tests are OK, now is the time to turn it off!
Along the way, I \'ve done several tests to \"close the case\" to make sure the case does come back together --JUST.
To make sure that shorts don\'t show up when everything is caught together, I bought some adhesive
Remove the insulating plastic from the scrapped laptop and cut it to fit it on the back of the Press board.
This is necessary as the SD card socket is pressed on it once assembled.
I also stuck plastic on the metal back of the LCD because the drive board assembly side would press on it.
As in pre-
Closed photo, I made up with 4 small metal brackets with a threaded hole at each end as a link between the two boxes.
These are made with scrapped laptop hinges.
Once each bracket is installed near every corner of the front box, it will drill holes in the rear box and install the screws into the bracket.
When all 8 screws are tightened, the case is securely secured together.
The battery cover is also clipped in the appropriate position, just clear the vertical connector on the Pi near the SD card socket.
I added 2 sticks to the rubber block on the inside lower part of the battery cover, which will give Li-
The ion battery and fix it more firmly in the appropriate position.
You can see from the photo of the battery door closed, there is quite a bit of space inside --
In fact, if I don\'t have the speaker installed there, I can install another Li-
The ion battery is there, although it will cover the bottom of the SD card slightly, making it difficult to remove/insert.
You can also see the extra GPIO lines bundled neatly with some of the pipes (maybe)later use.
Regrets and things to be done: 1.
I would love to catch a Game Boy without yellow!
This game is very cheap when I search online for a Game Boy\'s mod because it is defective, yellow and very dirty.
It cleaned up, but the paint work is the only way to remove the yellow color.
Still, this is my first attempt, if it fails then it would be better to destroy a yellow Game Boy instead of anew condition. 2.
I didn\'t bother to add the headphone socket because the battery is at the bottom right now so there doesn\'t seem to be an easy way.
I should fill in this hole, as well as the hole in the old link port and charging port. 3.
In this case, the speakers don\'t sound so great once, and all the speakers are turned off.
I suspect the 3 small holes I drilled out are too small, but I don\'t want to cut the big ugly speaker holes.
I can try to turn these holes into a long slot roughly the same as the opening of each speaker to see if this makes more sound.
Update: This issue has been fixed. 4.
I haven\'t added any cover or surround on the LCD yet.
If I can find a piece of acrylic or glass cut into the size of the opening, I think, for some thin black borders, this will greatly improve the look and provide protection for the LCD. 5.
Need to add protection board in Li-Ion cell.
If there is a short circuit or the voltage is too low, this will disconnect the power supply of the battery.
At the moment, the only way I can tell the low voltage is that the raised pressure Panel LED goes off and the LCD starts flashing.
Then it\'s time to shut down and charge!
But overall this is a very challenging project and the result is as good as I wish!
Now it\'s time to enjoy some crafting.
Host retro games!
Note: I found another small USB Li shortly after it was done-
An ion charging board with a Micro USB input and containing a battery protection circuit is online.
It\'s a big deal than I \'ve ever used and is ideal.
After a long time
I decided it was time to post my first structure.
I like retro stuff very much. gaming.
I have built a complete
The virtual pinball size that runs Hyperspin, which is probably my next note.
I am also upgrading a final lap driving cabinet in my early 90 s to become moregame machine.
Here I will show how I will be an old non
Nintendo Game Boy original and installed these parts :-3.
5 \"320x240 LCD with drive PCB-Raspberry Pi (Model A)-
Custom button PCB-1x 18650 Li-Ion cell-USB Li-
Ion charger-3. 7V to 5V DC-
DC Converter-
Stereo audio amplifier board
The stereo speaker si has seen other instructures do something similar, but I have set myself some challenges and the desired features I have built, including :-
With little or (ideally)
No changes-
Keep the USB port and HDMI port of the Pi accessible-
Hide SD card but also easy access-
Analog control of keeping volume
Keep the normal function of all front buttons and add buttons easily if needed
Upgrade the sound with an internal stereo speaker-
There are major components that are not pluggable (ie.
Not all things are hard.
Connect with each other)-
Keep some kind of visible power LED and charging status LED-
Make the Game Boy\'s case clean but reassemble very safely
Good operation-
About 2 hours per charge, I think I achieved all of these goals.
I wanted to pack two at first.
Ion batteries, but there is not enough room for 2nd batteries.
I have enough experience with Raspian/raspbcs to know how to start and run Pi using the Poppie.
But I\'m new here.
I have not dealt with the GPIO pins on the Pi before.
But I quickly found out how useful these pins are to not only control the game, but also navigate the simulator station menu.
Each button has a specific GPIO pin, and the software then lets the operation generate a key as defined in the configuration file.
Anyway, continue the work of the Department of Defense!
After checking other Game Boy mods on the Internet, I decided not to do it in a way that would allow me to achieve the results I wanted.
I spent a lot of time dealing with the location of the Pi in the Game Boy\'s case.
I have to make sure that it can be installed in a way that allows room for the LCD and its drive board.
Of course, I only have one chance to revise the case, and if I make a major mistake in judging how things will develop, then the case is over.
So I finally decided to cut the back shell, as I saw in the picture of drawing the cutting line.
A single USB port will be at the top, the soldering side of the Pi will be in front, and the HDMI port will be along the left side and a new hole must be cut for it.
I ended up completely removing the battery box as it was no longer needed, but I cut it off in a way that allowed the battery cover to be re-opened and inserted as usual.
This direction of the Pi has an SD card at the bottom, which is easily positioned in the old battery box area.
I could have removed the audio and composite video ports from the Pi, but it turns out that the video ports don\'t need to be removed.
As can be seen from a photo, I did cut off some shell plastic and make room for the audio port so the Pi would flush.
At that stage I planned to plug the cable into the port to get the audio, but I ended up just welding a 3pin header on the back of the Pi to get the audio.
In hindsight, I should remove the audio port and not cut the shell around it because it looks better.
The front opening of the LCD obviously has to get bigger so that all 3.
5 \"LCD can be seen.
This is done with Dremel.
A stable hand is needed.
Everything on the front of the box must make room.
The LCD will eventually be stuck in place with a very good double stick
Double sided tape rescued from the broken wholein-
A printer/scanner (
It holds the scanner glass in place).
By cutting the thin strips of this tape and lining it around the metal of the LCD, it is very firmly fixed in place.
Type of LCD (
From one of the many sellers on that popular auction site)
It was chosen based on the fact that I saw another construct using it for this purpose.
The one I used is called: 3.
5 \"TFT 320*240 color screen Car Rearview Mirror for reversing camera DVD.
I included a picture.
There are two problems with using this LCD.
I will list them here as well as the solution. 1.
It is designed to run 12v and I need it to run 5 v.
This is easily solved by connecting 5v to the point generated on the circuitboard.
I found a point on the board that had 5 V when it was running 12 v normally and then removed the parts that were not needed before that.
I made a mistake by removing the \"big\" inductor near the 12v input.
After connecting the external 5 v, the LCD will not light up with the Pi.
But it works fine when replacing the inductor. 2.
The motherboard that drives the LCD is about 10mm wider than the inside width of the Game Boy.
So I looked at how to trim it off the board to make it fit, but it won\'t spoil it in the process.
Call it pure luck, but as can be seen from the photos, I was able to remove enough things from both sides as well as some components and 3 buttons.
One photo shows the exact location where the sides are trimmed and the other shows it sitting behind the LCD.
With respect to this particular LCD, another thing to note is that it is almost as if the manufacturer provided the wrong drive board: the visible white flat cable is actually an extension of the cable to the LCD itself.
This white cable is about 8 cm long, allowing me to position the drive board exactly where I need it.
The video signal is connected using a thin coaxial cable of short length.
This is welded on the GND and AV1 on the driver\'s board. I fitted a 2-
The road Head connector goes to the other end and a matching 90 ° head is welded on the back of the PI of the video socket.
I installed it on an angle so the connector doesn\'t interfere with the volume control.
By removing all Game Boy electronics, I don\'t have a physical switch for 8 front panel buttons at the moment.
So I had to create a mini effectively
Replace the keyboard of the original motherboard.
This requires 9 wires (
8 button connection universal GND)
Go to the GPIO port of the Pi.
I was going to weld the wire to the GPIO pin but found an old PC back panel in my junk drawer with a parallel port that can be attached to the 26 pin head connectorPerfect!
All I need to do is remove the top of the plug, which makes it completely correct in height and drill out the pin 26 filled with plastic so that it is not installed in the wrong way.
This is then perfect for the GPIO header and allows access to each pin other than pin1 (3. 3V).
9 wires on the button board are trimmed to length, 2x5 v wires and 2 of the GND wires remain for a long time so they can be connected to 3. 7V -
5V lift plate power supply for Pi.
The wires are thin so I double them so they handle the current drawn by the Pi comfortably.
Instead of trimming all the excess wires, I left them for a long time and tied them in the heat shrink tube for later use
I\'m thinking of adding two other buttons as shoulder buttons for the game to use on Game Boy Advance if I end up adding these rom to the simulator station.
My keyboard was made by trimming some of the lines in the 6x8 cm pairs
Transfer contact and mounting hole position from front panel. The gold-
The color contacts that can be seen in the photos are made from the battery contacts of the scrapped old Nokia phone charger.
I tried using the bare pads on the PCB as contacts but did not establish a reliable connection with all the buttons.
They may be oxidized and stopped working over time. The gold-
However, the plating contacts work very well.
I added some sticks to the aluminum crust (
Laptop from scrap)
Behind the button on the carbon pad, because some pads are worn out, the work is not reliable.
By heating the aluminum sleeve while removing it from the old laptop (
Under the palm)
, It can be removed easily and the sticky stuff will stay on the deck.
It can then be cut into the size shown in the photo.
So fixed the pad with shield, I used some small
Measure the enameled wire copper wire, attach each contact on the motherboard to the 9 consecutive pads on the topmiddle.
This will make the connection cleaner when the wires from the GPIO connector are added.
This list shows how I can connect each button to each of the GPIO pins: head pin, GPIO, Game Boy feature, Keystroke7, 4, A, X 11, 17, B, Z start, enter 15, 22, select, Space 12, 18, down, 16, 23, right, right 18, 24, up 22, 25, left 14, GND ,-, -
Remember, this is for Type a, Rev. 2 Pi.
Go to places where you can find game and make files.
Then we need to edit the cfg file in the gamegame so that the GPIO can lock the required keystrokes as listed above, and then recompile it with Make.
Somewhere in this file, the comments talk about the \"Fire God nerve injection\" method to exit the game.
It includes pressing 2 buttons at the same time.
I found that in this case it is related to the select and start buttons.
It seems a little unfair-
Sometimes it takes a few times before it actually exits.
Because of this, I would like to add a button to the GPIO pin for this feature.
To increase the audio, I need the smallest amp I can find and some small but sound good speakers.
The amp I am using is a small stereo Class D powered by 5 v.
It is too small and I can hide it on the button board near the \"B\" button shown in a photo.
Later I covered it with some sticky plastic sheets.
The photo shows the coaxial cable welded to the l r input-
Later, since the coaxial cable was too thick to weld to the volume control, I gave up the idea.
I replaced the wires in the scrapped IDE hard drive cable and installed the 90 ° connector on the amp PCB.
I also installed a small 2-
The pin connector is embedded on the 5v wire of the amp board so that it can be inserted later.
The speaker I used was rescued from a Nokia N95 phone.
I have an N95 for years and it has the best/largest speaker in the mobile device I \'ve ever heard.
Therefore, the speaker part is cut off from the rest of the phone and then positioned as shown in the photo, fixed in place with a wire band welded on the board.
The tiny contacts on each speaker are then welded to the board and taken to the pads on the lower edge.
The speakers output the sound to the side of the chassis, so I drilled some small holes on both sides to let the sound output (
More will be introduced later).
I could have reused the Game Boy\'s original volume control, but found almost the same control on the old abandoned Toshiba laptop board.
A photo shows the control as well as part of the laptop motherboard I cut off to install it.
There is a perfect hole in the Game Boy box near the side opening, which makes my small volume control board screwed in place.
Then this is an issue of connecting the 2x GND wires, l r in and l r out to this board.
Wire for scrap IDE hard drive cable works well here.
To make it easier to connect on the Pi, I welded a 90 ° joint on the back of the Pi of the audio connector.
Then reuse 3-
Plug in from some old PC chassis front panel wiring.
The same is true on a small audio amplifier board, where L, R, GND can be connected from volume control.
Update 10/14: I just replaced the speaker with the speaker from Acer Aspire netbook.
I suspect that the amplifiers, while small, are too powerful for the N95 speakers and they start to be severely distorted.
Here is the exact type of speaker group I have installed now: the sound is much better now, and I also drill more holes for each speaker (
8 holes per side).
To install these Acer speakers, I completely removed the mounting flanges on both sides of them and placed several layers of very sticky double layers
Double sided tape on the back of each speaker is attached to the back of the corner at the bottom of the keyboard, then cut off the plug and weld the wires to the amp board.
I found some small boards with Mini on the Internet.
USB input and charging single Li-Ion cell.
The photo shows that there is a perfect place to install the board in the lower left corner of the first half of the box.
Although the connector has a hole cut and shape that can be poked, the board is tightly fixed in the appropriate position as it fits exactly between the wall and one of the internal pillars.
To make the charging led visible, I salvaged some light tubes from an abandoned cordless telephone base and cut it into shape to have it sit on the LEDs while also poking through
This works very well, it will emit bright red when charging, and it will turn green when charging.
You can also buy small boards with 3 pieces online. 7V from a Li-
Ion battery and lift it to 5v around 2A.
This one is perfect for the top near the USB port and is stuck in place with more dual stickssided tape.
The red LED on this board is then made to shine through a new hole in the front through another scrap tube. The 18650 Li-
The ion battery is obtained from a laptop battery that has never been charged.
I just randomly selected one of the 6 batteries in the battery, hoping it didn\'t fail.
If so, I have a lot more to try.
The battery I chose to charge in about 2 hours and gave me at least 2 hours of running time so it looks healthy enough.
I don\'t have a battery management circuit at this stage and I plan to add this circuit soon.
It will be a small round PCB with the same diameter as the battery.
It happens that there is enough space at the bottom of the case to accommodate this single cell of 18650.
Note how all cabling runs on one side of the chassis so it will be much easier to open and work later. The strange-
The search switch used to power all the equipment is something rescued from the old TV box.
I don\'t know what its rating is, but it seems to work well and is well installed in the narrow space of the Pi\'s vacant LAN socket location.
Ideally, I prefer the normal sliding switch, but there is not a small enough switch.
The switch is stuck by the super combination. sticky double-
Tape and hot glue.
I may need to find a way to screw in place if it gets stuck, but now it doesn\'t change.
All the wiring is done, all the tests are OK, now is the time to turn it off!
Along the way, I \'ve done several tests to \"close the case\" to make sure the case does come back together --JUST.
To make sure that shorts don\'t show up when everything is caught together, I bought some adhesive
Remove the insulating plastic from the scrapped laptop and cut it to fit it on the back of the Press board.
This is necessary as the SD card socket is pressed on it once assembled.
I also stuck plastic on the metal back of the LCD because the drive board assembly side would press on it.
As in pre-
Closed photo, I made up with 4 small metal brackets with a threaded hole at each end as a link between the two boxes.
These are made with scrapped laptop hinges.
Once each bracket is installed near every corner of the front box, it will drill holes in the rear box and install the screws into the bracket.
When all 8 screws are tightened, the case is securely secured together.
The battery cover is also clipped in the appropriate position, just clear the vertical connector on the Pi near the SD card socket.
I added 2 sticks to the rubber block on the inside lower part of the battery cover, which will give Li-
The ion battery and fix it more firmly in the appropriate position.
You can see from the photo of the battery door closed, there is quite a bit of space inside --
In fact, if I don\'t have the speaker installed there, I can install another Li-
The ion battery is there, although it will cover the bottom of the SD card slightly, making it difficult to remove/insert.
You can also see the extra GPIO lines bundled neatly with some of the pipes (maybe)later use.
Regrets and things to be done: 1.
I would love to catch a Game Boy without yellow!
This game is very cheap when I search online for a Game Boy\'s mod because it is defective, yellow and very dirty.
It cleaned up, but the paint work is the only way to remove the yellow color.
Still, this is my first attempt, if it fails then it would be better to destroy a yellow Game Boy instead of anew condition. 2.
I didn\'t bother to add the headphone socket because the battery is at the bottom right now so there doesn\'t seem to be an easy way.
I should fill in this hole, as well as the hole in the old link port and charging port. 3.
In this case, the speakers don\'t sound so great once, and all the speakers are turned off.
I suspect the 3 small holes I drilled out are too small, but I don\'t want to cut the big ugly speaker holes.
I can try to turn these holes into a long slot roughly the same as the opening of each speaker to see if this makes more sound.
Update: This issue has been fixed. 4.
I haven\'t added any cover or surround on the LCD yet.
If I can find a piece of acrylic or glass cut into the size of the opening, I think, for some thin black borders, this will greatly improve the look and provide protection for the LCD. 5.
Need to add protection board in Li-Ion cell.
If there is a short circuit or the voltage is too low, this will disconnect the power supply of the battery.
At the moment, the only way I can tell the low voltage is that the raised pressure Panel LED goes off and the LCD starts flashing.
Then it\'s time to shut down and charge!
But overall this is a very challenging project and the result is as good as I wish!
Now it\'s time to enjoy some crafting.
Host retro games!
Note: I found another small USB Li shortly after it was done-
An ion charging board with a Micro USB input and containing a battery protection circuit is online.
It\'s a big deal than I \'ve ever used and is ideal.
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