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home clinic; replacing a faucet can be easier than repairing one

by:KingKonree     2020-02-19
Bernard gladstonemarch 22,1987 this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before it starts online in 1996.
To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.
There are occasional copywriting errors or other problems during the digitization process.
Please send a report of such issues to archid_feedback @ nytimes. com.
Although most homeowners consider this to be a job beyond their reach, replacing a kitchen or bathroom faucet is a fairly simple plumbing work that is sometimes easier than fixing an old faucet.
This is especially true when dealing with old models, where replacing parts can be difficult to find, or where the tap is badly worn and can hardly be repaired, even then there is nothing to do to improve the look of the tap.
Many years ago, replacement faucets were only sold at pipeline supply outlets catering to professionals.
There are very few instructions for most models, and dealers are often reluctant to help.
Today, however, specifically for do-it-
Sell your own installed products at hardware stores and home centers.
Prices range from $25 to $75 depending on the style, finish and quality you can buy with single piececontrol (one-arm)
Washing machine of two models
Handle model with or without gasket.
All of these are equipped with installation instructions, as well as various adapters, conversion fittings and water pipes for connecting valves and fittings.
The packaging also includes installation hardware, and the water line included is almost always flexible, which greatly simplifies the installation problem.
Most dealers have a wide range of accessories and optional adapters, plus flexible water
Extension lines and replacement lines for metal or plastic in case any old connections are rusted or not aligned, so the fittings and pipes provided are not enough to do the job.
Welding or pipe threading is rarely required and no special skills are required.
You can switch to any available style when purchasing the faucet --single-handle, dual-
Handle, ball or cartridge-
But make sure that any faucet you buy fits the hole spacing on the sink or countertop.
Most faucets are interchanged and can be fitted with existing holes, but not all, so it is worth checking.
Before removing the old faucet, close the water supply by closing the valve under the sink (
If your sink does not have its own shut-off valve, you may have to close the main pipe).
Then, by unscrewing the coupling that holds them on the main body of the valve, disconnect the hot and cold supply lines from the closing valve.
Next, disconnect the upper end of each water pipe, where it is connected to the bottom of the faucet under the sink deck or countertop.
Due to the limited area where you have to work, it is usually almost impossible to reach the bottom of the tap with a normal wrench, so you may have to purchase (or borrow)
A tool called a pot wrench.
As shown in the figure, this cheap tool consists of a long rod or a handle with a hinge claw.
These claws are at right angles to the handle, so turning the bottom of the handle rotates the top claw, even in narrow places.
After unscrewing the compression fitting that connects the water pipe and faucet, the next step is to remove the big nut that holds the faucet to the sink deck or the countertop.
As shown in the figure, these nuts are usually threaded to the same pipe connected to the water pipe.
After removing the nut, the old faucet can be lifted from the top of the sink.
You may find a circle of hardened putty under the faucet housing.
If so, scrape it off before installing the new faucet.
Most faucets are now equipped with plastic or rubber washers that do not require putty.
Place this washer on the sink or countertop and then place the tap into the hole.
In the most traditional two
The handle model faucet will have two short tail pieces: short length threaded pipes that go down through the holes at the top of the sink.
As shown in the figure, these are the outside threads in order to accept the large anti-loose nut that holds the tap in place.
They are also used to connect the water pipes on the lower side of the faucet.
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However, there is only one on most newer washer-less taps
The control handle will have two flexible pipes of short length already connected to the tap, usually in the center.
These go through the middle holes at the top of the sink, directly below the center of the tap, but they have nothing to do with keeping the tap in place.
Instead, both ends of the faucet body have bolts through the other two holes at the top of the sink to secure it.
After setting the tap in place, fix the tap by screwing the nut from below to make sure you have installed the supplied gasket first.
In most cases you have to tighten these nuts using a basin wrench.
Now connect the upper end of each flexible water pipe to the faucet.
As shown in the figure, there will be a tapered compression fitting or ring permanent molding at the top of these pipes.
A hollow coupling nut slides on top and then screws to the end of the tail piece that extends down from the tap.
When the hose length of the faucet is flexible, you simply attach them directly to the shut-off valve under the sink.
If the original length of the pipe is not long enough, additional length of pipe can be purchased from most dealers.
The bottom end of the tubing usually has a removable compression ring that can slide along the outside of the tubing.
After cutting the pipe to the desired length, slide the ring into the pipe and then cut the end so that the pipe of about half an inch extends down into the valve or elbow fitting.
Slide the compression ring down as much as possible (
And tighten the coupling nut installed on this compression ring.
Since the pipe is flexible, it can be bent as needed, but be careful to bend gently to avoid bending.
Also, do not continue to bend back and forth if the pipe is metal.
Ensure that the end of the pipe enters the fittings directly;
If it enters from both sides at an angle, it is likely to leak even if the nut is firmly tightened.
Reply to email Q.
I am looking for a front door hinge that will lift the door a little when it opens so the bottom of the door will clean up a high
Pile carpet in it.
I saw such hinges on my friend\'s door but couldn\'t find them.
Most of the hardware stores and lumber mills I have interviewed have never heard of such hinges.
Do you know if this hinge is still available? Where can I buy if available? -W. S.
Rockville Center, Los Angeles. I. AdvertisementA.
It is called the butt hinge of the rise and can be bought from some hardware stores
Material dealer and home center.
You can also order such hinges from.
Constantine, 2050 East Chester Road, BronxY. 10461, 800-223-8087. Q.
I recently bought an old house and most of the decoration was not painted and it looked natural like a Tudor house in 1930s.
The door of one bedroom was humiliated by college decals.
How can I remove it without breaking the finish on the door? A.
You can try to cover the decals with a towel gently unscrewed in hot water.
Stick it on the decal for a few minutes to soften it and scrape the decal off with a plastic scraper (
The kind used on the windshield of the car).
But first test it in the hidden corner to see if the hot water will change the varnish color.
Another technique that often works is to heat the decal with a medium or low set-up hair dryer and then scrape after the decal is soft.
But be careful to avoid overheating or scorched paint.
Test it in a small corner first to see if the heat affects the varnish, which may be a good idea.
Questions about house repairs should be addressed to Bernard Gladstone of The New York Times, 229 West 43d Street, New York. Y. 10036.
This column will answer questions of general interest;
Unpublished letters cannot be answered separately.
A version of this article was printed on page NJ11 of the National edition on March 22, 1987, with the title: Family Clinic;
Replacing the faucet is easier than repairing the faucet.
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