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home clinic; well-adjusted clevis rod can help drain stopper

by:KingKonree     2020-10-18
John wardenov
1992 this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before it starts online in 1996.
To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.
There are occasional copywriting errors or other problems during the digitization process.
Please send a report of such issues to archid_feedback @ nytimes. com.
Most bathroom sinks come with pop-
Upper drain, operated by raising a vertical bar in the center of the faucet.
This drain looks more attractive than the old one and is more enjoyable to use
Old-fashioned rubber plugs, but sometimes annoying problems that are hard to fix.
If it is difficult to lift or push the vertical bar (called the lift bar) and the drain pipe is slowly emptied, the drain pipe may be blocked.
To remove the plug, lift the plug directly from the drain opening, or rotate it clockwise for about an quarter of an hour when lifting.
Some plugs can be removed by removing the drain pipe.
Clean the plug by cleaning the plug.
Then, if necessary, use a liquid drain cleaner, a screw drill for the plumber or by removing and cleaning U-
Shape trap tube under sink.
Reinstall the plug and test the drain.
If the stopper is not sealed on the side of the opening, the rubber gasket around the top of the stopper may wear out.
Buy a new plug.
If it is still difficult to operate the lift bar, or if there are other problems, please adjust or repair the drain pipe as follows: First, prepare the area under the sink for comfort, this way you can move under the sink while working.
Deletion may hinder your project.
If the floor is hard, use a pad like a thick towel or throw a carpet.
Hang up faulty lights or other lights that can be aimed so that both hands are free.
The advertisement was wrapped in a pair of channel chins --
Type the pliers with electrical tape to prevent the chrome-plated parts from leaving a mark.
If the mechanism is rusted, it is also necessary to penetrate the aerosol tank of the oil with a focused spray tube.
The advertisement slides under the sink.
Find the fixed screw that connects the vertical flat Rod (splints) with holes to the bottom of the lift rod, which is located above it.
Try turning the fixing screw counter clockwise with your finger or pliers to loosen it.
But don\'t force if the screw is stuck.
Spray a little penetration oil on the thread, wait a while for the oil to start working, and then try again.
Buy a replacement if the screw is broken.
After releasing the fixing screw, let someone push the plug into the drain to seal it.
From under the sink, push the lift bar up until it does not separate from the clevis bar.
Then reinstall the fixing screw and lock the rod in this position.
Test the drain again.
If the lift bar still works stiffly, adjust the pivot bar.
The rod is attached near the bottom of the clevis Rod and perpendicular to it.
Loosen the pivot rod by squeezing the spring clamp at the end.
Then slide the end of the hole on the cleat bar out of the spring clamp and move it to the next higher hole.
First insert the end of the rod into a hole in the spring clamp, then pass through the new hole in the splint rod, and finally through the remaining hole in the spring clamp.
You have to squeeze the clip and insert the end into the last hole.
Try the drain again
If there is still a problem, please adjust the Lift Bar repeatedly.
If the lift bar does not keep rising while pulling up, tighten the fixing nut around the pivot rod connecting the drain pipe.
To tighten the nut, turn clockwise when facing the nut.
If you have a fairly strong grip, tighten with your hand;
Excessive tightening of the nut with pliers makes it difficult for the rod to operate.
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Tightening the fixing nut should also solve any problem of leakage from around the pivot rod.
If not, or if you have to remove the drain to release the plug, loosen the nut and slide out along the pivot rod.
Gently pull the pivot rod out of the drain and note the position of any gasket or gasket that comes loose with it.
To fully retract the rod, you may have to squeeze the spring clip at the same time.
When the rod is out of the drain, you should be able to lift the plug that was previously anchored.
To resolve the leak, obtain a new gasket or gasket and a new ball to replace the gasket or gasket at the end of the pivot rod.
When you buy a new part, bring the old part with you so that you can make sure you get the duplicate part.
Before reassembling the drain pipe, clean the inside of the drain pipe with a rag.
A new gasket or gasket is then inserted.
If the stopper is a type that can only be removed by pulling out the pivot rod, place the stopper in the drain opening and align so that the hole at the bottom of the stopper can receive the end of the rod when inserted.
Slide the new ball onto the pivot rod and locate the ball so that when installed, it will allow the end of the rod to reach out at least half of the vertical arm of the drain pipe.
Grease the ball by applying it with a small amount of Vaseline, and then slide the rod in place.
To test whether the rod passes through the bottom of the stopper, when you hold the lever, ask someone to lift the stopper from the drain opening.
You should feel the tug.
Then wrap the plumber\'s line around two or three laps-
Open threads entering the drain around the pivot rod seal the tape clockwise.
Reinstall the fixing nut safely, but do not tighten too much.
Adjust the lift and pivot poles if necessary.
If the drain pipe leaks from under the sink, the part of the pipe between it and the pivot rod may be corroded.
If, despite the fact that there are new plugs that are tightly sealed, the sink is still unable to hold water, the sealing material between the plug opening and the sink may fail.
Both issues need to be fixed by replacing the drain.
A version of this article was printed on page LI13 of the National edition on November 8, 1992 with the title: Family Clinic; Well-
The adjusted Clevis Rod helps to drain the stopper.
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