- Solid Surface Bathtub
- Bathroom Vanity Cabinet
- Undermounted Sink
- Shower Trays
- Solid Surface Bathroom Countertop
- Solid Surface Worktop
- Solid Surface Stool
- Solid Surface Basin
replace the sink in a cultured marble countertop
This material was widely used in 1970s and 1980s.
To a large extent, if it is not abused, it is already aging quite well.
However, the built-in
In the sink of this substance, there are disadvantages of discoloration and cracking around the drain.
In our home we have five degraded sinks of varying degrees and we want to repair or replace them.
After some research, we found that the reasonable choice is: 1.
Replace the entire countertop, including the built-in countertopin sink. 2.
The entire countertop, including the sink, is completely new. 3.
Cut out and remove only the sink part of the countertop and replace it with water dropsin sink.
We felt it was a shame to replace these previously very useful countertops with some different materials, and the cost was not small, just to remove the sink flaws.
We observed different results in other family revival attempts, so we chose the third option.
The problem with this choice is that we can\'t find a local craftsman who will do it for us.
After investigating the procedure online, I chose to do it myself.
In the past, I have done a lot of home repair projects that are much more difficult, so the work is not particularly daunting, but I have read that it can be very confusing (
With a lot of white dust)
We should work together to solve this problem.
My plan is to be as prepared as possible and try this project.
The trial balloon will replace the sink on the small countertop of our guest room bathroom.
The worst case scenario is that if it doesn\'t show up as I would like it to, then I will pay for it and install a new countertop commercially.
Measure the size of the old sink opening very carefully, as this will help determine the size and shape of the replacement sink.
That is, the new sink opening needs to be at least as large as the floor area of the current sink, while incorporating the faucet opening of the sink.
Keep in mind that the new sink will be close to the sink-
The external lip of the inch about the circumference of the Bowl, except at the rear of the lip much larger to accommodate the tap group opening.
Mark the middle line and vertical line through the middle of the old drain pipe.
This is to help you align the sink cut template when recording it later. See photo.
I went to several sink manufacturer sites to find a sink that fits the size I need.
Most sites will give you the external dimensions of their sinks, which is fine for the time being as you need to make sure you don\'t crowd the edges of the countertop or the space below
Below is the tank cabinet
However, you also need a key measurement, which is the size and shape of the actual hole you are going to cut.
The opening must include the entire old sink.
I found the Kohler site to be easy to navigate, but in order to see them, you have to download the actual cut template and run the CAD file viewer program. (
You can easily find and download the free CAD file viewer online. )
I ordered our sink online at Home Depot as the actual model and color we wanted was not in their store.
The freight is free.
I got the tap from a local Lowe and the drain was obtained on Amazon.
In the past, I never needed a reciprocating saw, so for this job, I bought a cheap saw at the port freight company for $28.
A friend of the contractor said the saws were more used for rough cutting or demolition.
But he thinks that the reciprocating saw is the best tool to cut the sink.
I then chose a blade that was soaked with carbide particles.
It turns out that cutting artificial marble is quite easy but slow.
You must be patient and apply firm and constant pressure to the saw handle.
However, if you push too hard, it will slow down the speed of the saw motor, or worse, it will damage the blade.
I \'ve read where people use puzzles or routers to cut out the sink from raised marble.
My puzzle doesn\'t look strong enough and most routers have a wide pedal that might not allow you to be close enough to the tailgate.
I \'ve been having an angle grinder for a couple of years and it\'s another $25 tool for port freight.
I don\'t use it often, but this works fine.
Appendix November 10, 2017: instead of trying to re-
Write this Instructable and I will add a message to get your task built in-crop-in sink.
Earlier this year
I have been working on this project for almost 2 years)
We had to change the counter.
Beyond the scope of renovation.
We hired a highly recommended (
Clothes put into the quartz counter-top.
I asked them to cut the sink opening so I could install the sink myself and they had no problem.
They were professional and brought the counter.
Top of our driveway and cut the opening there.
They explained that it was too risky to cut off the opening of their store and then transport the counter
Top as they may rest on their way.
When they use angle Mills with Diamond Bay blades, I look at them with great interest.
The quartz cut by this blade is almost like butter, and the bay side allows it to easily cut the oval pattern of the sink opening.
I will definitely buy a blade if I do this project again.
This will greatly shorten the time it takes to cut the sink opening, which I suspect will reduce some dust.
When the installer cuts quartz in my driveway, it doesn\'t seem to be as dusty as I did in the bathroom.
The template attached to the sink must be cut off (
The big piece of paper that printed it)
Then stick carefully on the countertop.
It would be nice if the position of the new sink drain opening is on the template, but it is not on the template.
However, when I went to see the installation instructions, there was a drawing showing that the center of the drain opening was 6 1/8 from the top edge of the sink pedal.
I marked that location on the template with Sharpie. (See above)
Then it\'s easy to align the new line with the existing horizontal line I made earlier on the countertop.
The vertical center line has been drawn on the template and I aligned it with the vertical mark I made on the countertop.
Next, I use Sharpie to track the profile of the template to the table top.
Ideally, the new sink drain should be as close as possible to where the drain was previously occupied in the old sink.
This will make the end of the new drain with the existing P-
There is no need to introduce any new pipes or modify the old ones.
This is to prevent the pedal of the cutting tool from damaging the surface.
In fact, now is a good time to take everything from the bathroom that is not nailed down.
This includes the floor.
Use a towel to prevent dust from entering under the door.
Lay a few towels on the surrounding countertop to prevent any damage to the surface.
Easier said than done.
In the old pipe you take some risk when you start to close the water
There is no leakage at present but has not been in contact with the valve for several years.
In this case, my preference is to turn off the water on the street and then open the hot and cold taps of some nearby sinks or bathtubs to drain as much water as possible from the pipes.
Now I can disconnect the water supply line from the closed place.
Close the valve when catching residual water using a plastic pan.
Next, I screwed a brass cap onto two covers --
Close the valve so I can re-open the water on the street during this project.
To remove the old faucet unit, the other end of the flexible water supply line must first be disconnected from the nipple on the lower side of the faucet unit.
This will allow me to unscrew the mounting nut on the faucet assembly.
At this point, the set faucet can be raised and set aside.
Because the space behind the sink is often tight, I found that it is better to use a faucet wrench to remove the water supply line and the faucet mounting nut.
Next, I use a sink wrench to remove the large locking nut that holds the sink drain pipe flange to the bottom of the sink.
Then I loose the coupling nut on P-
Capture and remove it.
This releases the tail piece from below and lets me screw down the drain water tail piece and screw it off the flange.
However, there are many types of sink drains that may require different methods to remove them.
The sink part of the countertop is heavy and if it falls down while you cut it could damage the floor of the tank cabinet or the pipe under the sink.
Again, if the countertop is loose too early, it can take out a piece.
This is a necessary step.
How much white powder do you want to make, I can\'t emphasize it too much.
If you have to leave the bathroom in the middle of this project, you can take off the jumpsuit and leave it there with the built in boots.
Otherwise, you will scatter the white dust in the house.
Since you can easily embed a piece of marble in your eyes, goggles or safety glasses are required.
The mask should be at least half-
Type of facial respirator.
You don\'t want to breathe in this substance.
I found that the best place to start cutting is in one of the tap holes and then add the template line from inside.
I made the cut on the right and left.
The perimeter of the countertop covered by the sink template is about 70% of the normal thickness-
Or about inches.
However, when I cut towards the front of the sink, the material becomes thicker due to the built-in material
In the way in which overflow channels and sinks are manufactured.
The arrow in the photo above shows where I can no longer cut on the surface of the countertop.
At that time, I drilled two holes in the sink bowl, about 3 inch below the surface.
I used Photoshop on the photo above to better show where I was drilling.
The black line shows where I attach these holes to each other and then to the surface of the table top.
I also found that the new holes that extend from the tap hole to the front of the sink, it\'s easy to start a few loose cuts on the bowl and vice versa.
I\'m not going to connect these cuts.
Then hit the side of the bowl with a hammer and let me remove nearly 2/3 of the sink bowl by breaking loose medium bulk material (
Again, see the picture above).
I found that instead of having to remove all the thick bowl material in front of the sink, I used the material with 4 pax-
Inch of metal grinding plate and grinding bowl material enough to accommodate the new sink.
I don\'t have one-
So I used a 1-
The inch shovel of the two holes mentioned above.
Very easy to cut materials.
I can then insert the reciprocating saw blade into the hole on the right and cut it up to connect where I stopped cutting on the surface of the dresser.
I then repositioned the saw blade into that hole, but turned the blade so that it was perpendicular to the surface of the bowl and cut horizontally to the hole on the left.
Finally, I cut up from that hole to the counter surface, and the rest of the sink bowl was cut off the countertop.
The cut in the front center of the opening is the overflow channel that accommodates the protruding from the bottom of the new sink. See photo.
After removing the tape, clean the surface of the countertop around the cut with some glass cleaner.
This step is now easy to do, and the sink is much more difficult to install on the countertop.
Install the faucet unit on the sink and connect the flexible water supply line to the faucet unit.
Use the putty of the plumber under the flange, and use the Teflon concentrate pipe thread compound where the tail part is connected to the flange.
Install the new sink into the opening of the countertop and connect the flexible water supply line to the hot and cold water closureoff valves.
If the alignment of the two pipes is not acceptable, a flexible tailend extension and/or a flexible P-
Accommodate any misplaced trap assembly.
Seal the seam between the new sink and the countertop using silicone sealant beads.
I\'m using the clear type.
Turn off the sink drain plug, turn on the hot and cold faucet handle, check for leaks in the inlet pipe, and check for leaks in the sink drain.
Next, put a clean dry tissue on the floor of the sink cabinet under P-
Trap, open the sink drain.
Check the leakage in the outlet pipe.
Please resolve any bugs if you find them.
Working on an old pipe always has the risk of damaging it.
In my case, the plumber who installed the old-fashioned sink used some unknown pipe thread compound plastic thread joint nut P-
I took one of them apart.
Then I had to replace P-
In order to install the new coupling nut, clamp the Crown pipe.
Even though my wife and I covered everything with plastic cloth and blocked the space under the door, some white dust was still able to get into the hallway and the study nearby.
The new sink is much better than the discolored buildingin sink.
We spent far less than $300 on this project to replace the countertop.