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KingKonree - Solid Surface Manufacturer of Sanitary Ware, Solid Surface Countertops & Sheets for over 24 years, innovation in moulding and thermoforming


the definitive guide to brewing all the beer in your own backyard

by:KingKonree     2020-05-05
Today, you will learn how to brew beer.
Yes, there are already several beer programs here;
How to make a blonde, IPA, or stout, but that\'s not how to make a beer.
That\'s how you brew beer.
Like all the beers.
Not all, (very)
Wide range of brewing from all beersgrain start.
Extract beer, brew in bags follow some of the same procedures, but all
The grain offers the most features and challenges for family winemakers.
The beer we are following is a typical 20L lot, very basic.
You can call it a golden beer, or a cream beer, which doesn\'t really matter.
In the end, what I do is not give you the most, nor is it something I want you to know.
But you care what I want you to know, and I may just be a fool who asks you to read a lot of books and trust him.
You think I\'m a fool, there\'s really nothing I can do about it, it\'s a pure point of view, but from the point of view of trust, I\'m a classic trained Master of winemaking, for the last 7 years, he has been making commercial brewing in Canada.
During that time, I worked at 4 different facilities, produced beer and designed recipes for 10 breweries by contracting, and operated my own brewery for a while.
I hope to apply my massive technology and theory to your backyard.
Better beer.
Nevertheless, this is a complicated process.
There will be a lot of steps where words and words don\'t sound real, but at every step I explain, it\'s not just what and how to explain, but why.
It\'s fun to make beer, but it\'s a time-and labor-intensive hobby and you spend as much as you can.
My goal is, armed with the knowledge here, your beer will be worth it.
What I\'m not going to introduce here is how to build any of the equipment shown here, and I don\'t provide the tools to design new recipes.
These are available throughout the place and I will provide some links when appropriate, but it does not fall within the scope of this particular description.
As a further disclaimer, I will provide expanded resources from various associations and companies.
I don\'t belong to them, I don\'t get any money from you by clicking on these links, and as far as I can tell, by interacting with them, there is no extra benefit for any other party.
I included them as I thought they were useful resources and provided various sources for your further reading.
Let\'s start!
There are seven main steps in making whole grain beer, each with its own dedicated equipment, in addition to the general tools, and of course the actual ingredients to be discussed.
I will start with the most important, check once.
Sanitary appliances: That\'s right.
This is the most important step so far, not only in the beginning stage, but also in every step.
The whole brewing process is to create an ideal environment for microbial growth. We really want very few small animals in beer, and only a few invisible intruders can destroy your hard work.
So if you want to know why, take the cleaning work seriously and let your grain sit for a day and smell it.
What you need: personal protective equipment: At least rubber gloves and goggles, detergent is aggressive and will burn your skin and melt your eyes.
That said, shoes and trousers with closed toes are also a good idea.
Nebulizer: also known as a spray bottle, is a great tool for diluting chemicals to useful concentrations.
You can buy some in dollar store or some. A leave-
Using hand sanitizer in a spray bottle will save you a lot of heartache.
Detergent: detergent is the cleaning part of the sanitary system.
They remove visible and invisible soil, oil, and any other biological dirt that is usually piled up on your gear, and remove it thoroughly after use, so that they can be what you don\'t want to eat.
Everything you use should be clean.
There are so many choices that they can all work.
Most home beer shops have some different beers (the pink stuff)
This is a safe option that can be used as a disinfectant.
Bleach is an option, but be careful on the porous surface as it can absorb and keep the taste active.
My personal favorite is alkali or caustic soda, which can eat anything (including you)
No taste, easy to neutralize.
Hand sanitizer: hand sanitizer is disinfected (surprise! )
Part of the health system.
They kill biological agents or cause enough damage to them to the point where they cannot reproduce.
They don\'t remove the soil, so disinfect it after you clean it.
The best bets are those that leave immediately. on sanitizers;
If you have to rinse them off, you really have to trust your water and the hose it comes from.
Only some equipment needs to be disinfected.
As mentioned earlier, Diversol can be used as a disinfectant, and although most home beer shops also have some form of Coke rock that works, they stink and burn your nose.
Star San is a common home brewing option that is fast and can continue to be used, but it has some exotic chemicals that can make it better.
I like acetic acid.
It would be great if you could get it because it works immediately, neutralizes the remaining clean chemicals and quickly rot into vinegar.
The best way to disinfect if you have silicone and metal parts is to heat;
It may take longer, but unlike any chemical option, it can penetrate and disinfect the soil that may be missed.
A small collection of tools is also required and will be used in several steps in the process.
Water source: you need a reliable water source.
Usually it is better to brew outside due to cleaning, so the garden hose is enough.
You don\'t need hot and cold water, you can cook your own water in the kettle during most of the brewing process.
Oven Gloves: to protect your hands, you will handle a pot of boiling sugar water, insulation is a must, and you will not have to be careful to avoid getting wet if you can get these silicone dipped gloves.
BBQ lighters: this setting, like most cheap entry-level settings, uses propane cylinders as a heat source;
You want that bastard to light up. Auto-
Siphon: a siphon that is capable of transferring liquid from one level to another.
These are available in homemade stores and websites all over the place, and they are a great tool.
These are easy to use and easy to clean, and if you\'re just using a hose, it\'s much safer than inhaling a boiling liquid.
That said, they do get hot, so you need some pipes that don\'t collapse at high temperatures.
The woven hose is the easiest option and can be replaced quickly once it starts to break. Instant-
Reading the thermometer: being able to monitor the temperature is one of the key control elements required for successful brewing.
You want to heat up quickly so you don\'t get hot.
The meat thermometer with the probe on the wire works well as it can be inserted while closing the container. Infra-
The red thermometer is not a good choice, the temperature we need is right
Homogeneous, there\'s often steam coming out of them, though it\'s better than nothing if you have.
Timer: you need a timer, it takes a long time to brew even if you work fast, something like hops, depending on their time to give you what you want.
Fortunately, most of us can yell at Siri to count.
Scale: Another key element of control;
The weight of the ingredients needs to be precise if you want to reproduce the beer;
If all you do is one
If not, but the data is good.
My scale is worse to wear;
The platform is misplaced at some point and it doesn\'t have a good resolution.
Ideally you are looking for a waterproof scale which means there is no stickiness
Up button with a resolution of 1g or less with a capacity of Up to 3-5kg. Mash-
Paddle: there is a specially designed paddle that you can buy in a variety of media, most of which have holes on the blades of the paddle.
This is all aesthetic.
On a business scale, if you hate yourself, you can use mashed oars that do help, but it doesn\'t matter at the homemade level. You mash-
The paddle can be a large spoon, spatula, or even a long pin.
All you need is that it doesn\'t melt, or it breaks when pushing something oats --
Same meal.
One 20L barrel: buy at least one, they are cheap and available from hardware stores, home improvement stores and Walmart.
They are perfect for mixing a batch of disinfectant, keeping parts, ingredients, and making moat around your car in case things are too active during fermentation.
Some people ferment in plastic buckets.
Try to avoid this situation, plastic scratches are easy and will allow yeast and other unpleasant creatures to live in these cracks.
Pitchers: there are at least two measuring cups or pitchers with a capacity of at least 1 liter who are very helpful in moving a small amount of liquid.
I use big plastic cups.
Scale: this is another indispensable tool for replication and monitoring, but it doesn\'t actually need to be if you just want to make an option.
The biometer measures the density of the liquid directly according to the floating height of the liquid relative to the water.
This tells us how much we extract from the grain, the potential alcohol content, and how far the fermentation process is.
They are closely related to the temperature, so a method of cooling the sample is required, or a calibration chart is required to ensure accuracy.
Specific weights and cylinders can be found everywhere in homemade stores.
Other options include the Flamer;
These measure the refractive index and associate it with the density.
They are instant and take only a few drops of samples, but they are an order of magnitude more expensive than a weight meter and cannot be reliably used to measure something that contains alcohol.
Iodine: a very useful tool for both time processing and trouble shooting.
Just need a small bottle of iodine from the pharmacy.
When exposed to starch iodine, it becomes black.
This means that we can use it to judge whether our trick or not is done;
You just need to drop a few drops of liquid samples from the mash, although as few solids as possible will distort the results.
Don\'t throw this mashed potatoes back. The iodine tastes bad and it\'s terrible.
PH measurement: pH is as important as temperature for a successful beer, but in homemade beer, pH is often ignored.
The stone Rui and the universal indicator strip are not accurate enough to be used.
A low-cost digital probe can be provided by the waterploughing store, the pool store and some aquarium stores, you want the precision of one decimal point, but more is better.
The PH probe needs to be calibrated frequently, and some mathematical knowledge is required to adjust the pH of the beer;
Of course, it will increase the labor force, but it will take only 1 point to avoid drinking beer mysteriously.
Even though the other data are good, 5% of alcohol.
Colander: pasta filter, or in the case of this manual, a perforated oven tray is another optional tool.
Its main use is to spread any liquid added to the grain bed in order to cause less damage by dumping a pile of water on the grain bed.
While they will make the work easier, it is equally effective to fall on the back of the mash paddle, or just be careful and gentle.
Malt Mill: Another thing that is not needed.
Grains need to be crushed in order to be useful in crushing.
You can buy malt from most sources and can provide pre-
Or have a mill in their store, so you don\'t have to go to the capital in person.
There are a lot of two rollers to choose from if you want to rip off the beer at home, but the corn mill is OK too.
When you grind your own grain, you want to break the grain without leaving the whole grain and making the flour.
The shell of the grain provides a matrix that allows the liquid to flow through, and the spices extracted from them are both rough and astringent, so we want them to be intact.
What we seek is the white starch germ layer of the grain;
The bigger the chunk you need for your mash, but the easier it is to get a clearer liquid from the mash. It\'s a trade-off.
You need some dedicated hardware to brew, and luckily most of the hardware is easy to make or can be paid a few dollars in advancemade.
Since DIY is a big part of home brewing, since I have said that I have not covered it, it is dereliction of duty that I do not provide some links on how to build these items;
Fortunately, ads have been made for these products!
Tun and Lauter Tun: Tuns is just a big water-tight container.
The village will be a labor-intensive work boat.
The mash is to make and dissolve sugar, while the compliment is to extract only the mashed liquid part.
Although these are two separate procedures, it is convenient to carry out these procedures on the same ship.
No matter what container you use, there will need to be several key components: it must be able to maintain the temperature of its contents in 1C for about an hour like a cooler.
It requires a way to separate the liquid from the solid, either through the wire mesh or through a copper pipe system sent to the socket on the cooler.
It needs to be able to accommodate the amount of your beer.
And, it needs to be able to clean, not disinfect, which doesn\'t matter here.
A better system may have a built-in heater, which is great and opens up more ways to control your beer, but at a homemade level, many craft breweries are extravagant.
I am using a small cooler with a built-in faucet to drain water and the connection here is a small network of copper pipes and I cut the slots with dremel to get the liquid through.
Copper is not glued together, nor is it welded together, it just has a point stuck in it.
There is no control over my temperature.
Another good option if you don\'t like copper pipes is the toilet hose with woven steel around;
Clip the end and take out the plastic that you have a flexible filter hose.
The following is a link provided by other instructors regarding the production of the mash/Laut tuna kettle: The kettle is different from the tuna because they have the ability to control the temperature.
This is great as the wheat kettle needs to be cooked for a while.
It also needs to be able to empty easily, usually by gravity.
Of course, you want at least 25L capacity no matter which ship you choose;
You will make foamsuper-
Hot sticky foam, the less you need to clean, the better.
One of the easiest to buy wort juice kettles is a turkey fryer.
This is a propane power burner with a stainless steel pot (
Cover and thermometer)provided.
The capacity of the pot usually exceeds 20 L, and the burner will emit a large amount of stable heat.
Although you have to do it outdoors, unless carbon monoxide is your thing.
If this is not an option, a large pot on the top of the stove can work.
When you fill the kettle, you usually need to put the kettle on the ground and then lift it to the stove when you fill it.
Ensure good indoor ventilation;
You will create a lot of steam and other unstable things that will lead to unexpected growth in your kitchen ceiling.
You can get ideas from electric kettle (
The kind of tea)
But it\'s up to you if you choose to go this way.
Fermentation: the common choice for small batch fermentation is carboy.
These look like oversized bottles;
So wide body, narrow mouth, plastic and glass.
Glass is a better choice.
It is solid, chemical inert and super hard with a glasssmooth (surprise! )
Avoid the interior of animal cracks.
The narrow mouth is important because you will put an air lock on this suction cup.
The yeast you add is the only thing you want to live in a beer, and while it\'s very good at protecting yourself, you have to try to minimize access.
The gas gate I use is the \"S\" shape that is stuffed into the glue plug;
It keeps a small amount of disinfectant in its \"U\" section, just like under your sink.
The gas produced by fermentation creates pressure behind this, it splashes into the reservoir and allows it to pass without building pressure.
There are several varieties from spring-loaded vent valves to hoses immersed in a bucket of water.
All do the same thing and all work equally.
Wort cooler: this is one of the optional and non-selectable devices.
You can find these as immersion coolers in a homemade store;
They are a copper or stainless steel coil that you can attach to the garden hose and dip into the kettle.
The purpose is that cold water flowing through the length of the hose quickly absorbs heat from boiling and drops it to the temperature at which yeast can live, ideally at 16-
18 degrees Celsius, or at least below 40 degrees Celsius.
If you are on the hot side, your yeast will become very \"confusing\" and will produce more intermediate products during fermentation, which will cause strange and/or unpleasant
If your yeast is dead, beer is also important.
Also, we want to get this done as fast as we can because a lot of small animals can live in hot environments and they really want to ruin your beer.
Immersive chillers do this feat and do it fairly clean, but they go through a lot of water and add a considerable price tag to your setup.
Even if you build it yourself like I do.
Fortunately, you have a lot of choices at this step;
You can make a reverse immersion cooler;
Place the kettle in a rubber container shorter than it and let the hose run at a slightly slower speed but without real equipment.
You can also do this in the bathtub, which may be a better option for indoor brewers.
You can reduce the total volume you want and add cold water or ice to the kettle to reduce the temperature, but you definitely trust the water source, and bags of ice don\'t always have no bacteria.
You can have an extra long hose on the auto
The siphon sticks out of the kettle and on the way to the fermenter, delivers the hose through the water/ice bath.
Or, if you\'re desperate, you can put it in your car when you\'re boiling, then loosely wrap saran in your mouth and let it cool itself.
This is a bad option because your beer will be in danger for a long time and is not protected, but I have used it successfully in the past.
OK, this covers what is needed to turn the source of the beer into a beer.
Here\'s where your recipes and creativity work!
Traditionally, beer is made from four ingredients;
Malt, hops, water and yeast.
Carbon dioxide will also be added to most commercial applications for carbonated use.
There are also many accepted styles, adding spices to the mixture, or adding other sugar, or even adding other creatures other than yeast.
I haven\'t come across a beer that injects gas other than carbon dioxide, but I want to try it.
When you\'re home brewing the sky is the limit of what you can and can\'t do.
Today, we only focus on a basic template for beer that you can build on yourself. What\'s a malt?
Malt is the seed of already sprouted grass and grain (surprise! )
Malt provides the main source of protein, sugar, color and many aromas and flavors for finished beer.
Nevertheless, the raw grain locks all of this in it;
After all, it\'s a seed that needs to bring all the good things to its own life.
We have to play a trick.
The malt processing process is to chop and dry grain particles that allow germination and slightly germination.
The germination process triggers the production of enzymes in the grain and begins to release internal starch reserves when the grain is ready to grow.
The drying and cutting blocks stop the process so that we can use it later.
Depending on the malt of the grain, the drying/kg procedure and their combination in the recipe, a wide variety of flavors and looks can be made.
In a broad sense, there are three categories of malt, basic malt, special malt and roasted malt.
The basic malt consists of most of the grains in the recipe, collectively referred to as grist.
Base malts are fermented at very low temperatures, which means that their contribution to color is very low, but they contribute the most to fermented sugar and enzymes.
This is very important because the fermentation process of other kinds of malt wine destroys their enzymes, making it impossible for them to convert their starch into sugar, so they have to borrow money from somewhere.
In addition, having more enzymes can make everything faster, which means that it takes less time to sit together and look at the sealed box.
The most common basic malt wines include: 2-
Row: The whole class of home brewing;
Large fat grains rich in starch and enzymes, good for anything 6-
OK: it\'s hard to find, the kernels of 6 lines of barley are smaller, and the protein is 2-
Row, if you use a lot of syrup, sugar, or strange vegetables in your recipe, it would be ideal.
Pearner malt: the starch contribution ratio of the very light pearner malt is 2-
But the finished product tastes more like grain.
Perfect for German style.
Maris otters: the derogatory meaning of \"light malt\" is the most common variety of Maris otters.
These basic malts are a little darker than the two rows, but add more body and fresher flavor to the finished beer.
Great for British style.
Specialty malt is a very broad category, neither roasted malt nor basic malt.
They add primary colors and malt flavors to the finished product and help to reduce the pH value in the mash, but generally make up less than 30% of the grist.
Their colors are measured in degrees of Lovibond, SRM, or EBC, depending on where it comes from, but in all cases, the higher the quantity, the darker the grain.
Since this is such a broad category, I am unable to provide an exhaustive list of your options, but in the general sense, the lighter professional grain will add bready, taste of nuts and toffees and beer in gold and orange.
As the color of the malt wine becomes darker, the flavor contribution is achieved through butter, biscuits, caramel, toast, chocolate, coffee and char.
From orange to red to brown and black, the color gradually becomes darker.
In addition, the degree of humidity when the malt is scorched also affects its results, and the more humid malt is more \"stewed\" than the baked taste \".
These include a sub-category of crystal malt wine, where the entire interior of the kernel becomes a caramel particle, which is very easy to use for brewing purposes.
When determining your grist bill, it is useful to include some special intermediate color step malt in comparison to your darkest malt, helping to be comprehensive and complex (unsimplify? )
Overall flavor of finished beer.
The baked malt has reached the extreme, they are all obvious black, but there are varying degrees of darkness.
Baked malt is just a small part of most cereal bills, almost always less than 10% of the total bill.
While they do not provide enzymes and they do not provide much of what can be fermented, they are highly aggressive flavor and color contributors that are good for pH regulation and should be used with caution.
The flavors include charcoal, coffee, and Acid ash.
Their baking makes the kernel fragile, and they tend to break in the mill, which means that their aggressive taste is accompanied by a strong bitter taste of the hull.
Fortunately, the subcategory of a roasted malt has been \"canceled\"
\"This is the hull removed so they can add clean, low
The smell of beer.
Strange \"malt\" is a bit mysterious in the fourth category, where you will find acidic malt, which is the base malt with lactic acid added for pH correction, and smoked malt with smoke added (surprize! )
But most of the time you find outmalted grains.
Because they are not accessible to all goodness, they have no enzymes, but they have other processes;
Bake, roll or bake.
Unbaked grains can be treated as roasted malt, but can be rolled or baked as is, without even grinding.
In the real world, fast oats are an example of rolled grains, where rice is burnt out.
Raw grains can be used in a natural state, but they need to be ground separately and boiled in their own containers before they are used for tamping.
This is an advanced technology that can work once you are satisfied with the process.
Okay, but what kind of grain is malt?
Every malt I mentioned above is barley.
The most common grain in beer so far is barley.
The traditional, delicious, beer grows around it and is perfect for looking forward to it.
Most of the featured malts are also available only in barley, but there are other options for base malts: Wheat: Type 2
Wheat is the most common grain, which is good for both enzymes and starch, but there is no shell, which makes it difficult for wheat to pass through. But it is perfect for baking because it will not have the same bitter taste.
Wheat tends to form a larger volume and stronger head on a finished beer.
It is easy to find basic malt liquor and some varieties of specialty wheat and roasted wheat in the market.
When you have more than 50% of the grain as wheat, it\'s hard to work with it.
Rye: it is usually only considered as basic malt, which is a troublesome grain.
Its shape is weird so the mill needs to be adjusted and there are a lot of gums inside so it\'s hard to use.
Still, it does have a unique and delicious taste, pepper, spicy and dry, and adds a big fat to the finished beer.
More than 30% of black wheat will be in trouble.
Oats: you rarely see oats malt, but you can get quick or instant oats from any supermarket.
Oats contain a lot of fat and protein.
Adding a lot of body and smoke can also improve the foam stability of finished beer.
Most often, you\'ll see the oats added to the stout to make it more creamy.
The content of oats is below 10%, a little far away.
Rice: Surprisingly, there is malt rice, but it is hard to find, and luckily there is cooked and puffed rice in the supermarket.
You can also use it as syrup and add it like sugar.
A large amount of sugar is added to the rice, but not much sugar, it can brew dry beer, but has the characteristic of a slight tropical fruit.
Corn: most of them are treated as corn syrup, and almost only sugar is added.
As a grain, it contains a lot of oil, which makes it very troublesome to use.
The Mexican-style light beer uses corn, but personally I don\'t like corn.
Gluten free alternatives: more and more choices for sorghum, buckwheat, rice, millet, gluten free beer;
Most of them are syrup in the first place, but there are also options for basic malt.
However, their taste tends to be raw and sour, and the finished product does not have the expected quality of the beer.
Try to improve their advantages if you use them instead of repeating a beer.
Because they can\'t.
Resource Weyermann is a German specialty malt manufacturer that has been in existence for more than one hundred years.
They know their stuff and have a proprietary \"Kara\" process that I like.
It is a British-based company that has been established for more than a century.
They know their stuff, too. a hop?
Hops are a flower that grows on vines all over the Earth, with dozens of different flavors, scents, and applications that depend not only on the variety, but also on where they come from the world.
This is due to the oil and resin contained in their special deer ulin glands.
Hops mainly add bitter taste specific to beer, but also add a lot of fragrance, taste, foam stability, microbial stability and shelf-life to beer.
They are really great.
Hops do not always exist in beer, and historically any plant is available, but due to the inherent benefits of hops, which dominate the market, it is rare to find beer without hops today.
In fact, beer without hops is not technically beer (
But it\'s a beer);
We call it Gruit.
Any pack of hops will print something called alpha acid content on it, which is a measure of alpha acid (surprise! )
The weight of hops.
Although they don\'t do much, they are heterogeneous when they boil, and these are mainly the reasons for the bitter beer.
You can see that this package is an IBU rating, which is a theoretical measurement of concentration;
It\'s basically bigger and more painful.
The higher the percentage of alpha acid in hops, the less the total weight of hops you need to reach the same bitter level.
This is good because the rest of the hops will also be added to the beer and unfortunately most of the hops are just vegetables and taste bad.
Over time, when exposed to heat, light, and oxygen, these rot reduces the overall bitter taste, but adds some tacky flavor to the beer.
It is worth mentioning that skunky hops are the main cause of this if you have ever had a beer flavor;
Ultraviolet rays illuminate heterogeneous alpha acids in beer and break down some of them, and then make them react with b2 produced by yeast.
This is why people prefer brown bottles in order to block the light.
Unless you\'re Corona.
Then you hug your skunkiness.
However, in addition, beta acid content may be printed on the package.
Unlike alpha acid, beta acid is not as heterogeneous or dissolved in water as alpha acid.
Their main contribution is that when they are oxidized and rotted, they are brought into the water like fish.
These oxidized acids are bitter, which helps to make up for the loss of the oxidized Alpha, of course, but they do so in lingering, rough, sticky and unpleasant environments
If that\'s not enough, their oxidation products will also add the smell of cheese, garlic and vomit to the beer.
However, there is a merit that beta acid has Resistance
Helps to protect the microbial properties of beer, some Belgian acid beers only want the flavor of oxidized beta acid in beer.
This is a taste of the day after tomorrow.
Beer flower oil is sometimes printed on the package, but this is a bit rare.
Hops oil has a variety of Heterogeneous Substances and oxidation products.
These combinations define the aroma and flavor contribution of jumping beyond bitter taste.
And a wide range;
The most common is the flavor of citrus and pineapple, but spicy, floral, creamy, earthy, Berry, vanilla, mints, wine and tea-
Just like everyone comes to the party.
This is a vast world, it helps to explore.
The World of Beer flowers in the world says where they come from, and even in the same breed, their overall flavor has a strong determinant.
I know it sounds like a pretentious terrier in the wine world, but it\'s true.
At least from the mainland to the mainland, the side where hops grow on the mountain is not something I claim to be able to notice.
The world\'s leading areas for hops cultivation are the United States, continental Europe, the United Kingdom and Australia/New Zealand.
American hops are something you can find at any brewery that defines IPAs trends.
The American hops are bold and have a high content of alpha acid and oil.
Most often, American hops pass the orange and grapefruit world of citrus and pineapple aromas to beer.
Berries and fruit are also common, but a more subtle flavor like vanilla and cream is almost non-existent in American hops.
The continent of Europe is yours.
Hops, they have their own special name \"noble hops \".
\"They have the flavors traditionally associated with lagers and bocks.
These hops are spicy, herbal and earthy, and often have a very low alpha acid content.
Pineapple tastes fairly common, but the rest are rarely served if any.
The hops produced in the UK are similar to those produced by noble hops, but are not invited to the club.
Compared to their European sisters, these hops pay more attention to notes of flowers, wood and paste.
They are traditionally associated with the malt liquor they come from.
Australian/New Zealand hops are strange.
Their climate and isolation means they don\'t have pests and diseases anywhere else in the world, so the hops they plant don\'t have to focus on being strong.
Tropical fruits, wines, lemons, lime, vanilla, mints, these hops can bring anything unusual.
They are almost all high alpha and high-oil hops, adding a unique flavor to the classic beer style.
There are hops in other parts of the world, but they are secondary contributors;
Sachihi Ace made in Japan (mostly)
This is green grass and lemon, starting production in Canada, and the mint flavor I have seen is common.
There are hops in China and Africa, but they are almost entirely domestic.
Using HopsHops can be purchased in several different options.
The most common thing so far is marinating hops, which are sealed in an opaque nitrogen-washed vacuum bag to keep them cold and unopened to withstand the fear of the world
Granules are suitable for any application. Whole-
Leaf hops are extremely fast to deteriorate and need to use freshly picked hops in about 2 days.
Therefore, they are not common unless you know growers or have their own factories.
They don\'t usually test them, so don\'t rely on them to complain, just scent.
They add more vegetable properties and it can be painful to clean up afterwards, but it\'s an adventure.
Hops plugs are rare but good fr. Authentic British style, basically just dry and press the whole hops, they are better stored, but there is a cleaning problem with the whole leaves.
Very well equipped beer shops may have hops oil and extracts that can be added directly so you can make frankon yourself
Taste of nesesque.
They are more intended for commercial brewing, and unless you can accurately measure the milliliters, they blow away most home equipment.
However, taste the extract if you can find some.
Your face will be numb by pain.
Nice, cool.
Where do you use hops?
Mainly in the boiling part of the brewing process.
It takes heat to heterogeneous alpha acid and convert some oil.
It also takes away the oil, so it is very important to add hops when boiling.
Closer to the end of boiling, the less bitter, the more aroma you need.
As a guide, hops are divided into three categories, which show their best use, but they are by no means a hard rule to apply.
Bitter wine flowers are most suitable for use at the beginning of boiling, often with very low aroma and taste, and can provide a clean and crisp bitter taste for brewing.
The aroma of the bouquet contains a high proportion of oil, with a pleasant or unique taste and smell.
To preserve these, they can be used later in the boiling, or at the end of the boiling, or even outside the boiling. Dual-
Objective hops are fragrant hops with high alpha content, which are used to remove nuts.
So I said, when cooking wine flowers, where else can the wine flowers go?
If you have enough spirit of adventure.
The most common application is drying.
Hops added directly to the fermenter. The low-
Temperature conditions can prevent the addition of any further bitter taste, but oil can be retained to obtain the maximum flavor of raw hops.
After cooking, you can filter through a jump back, which can quickly extract the fragrance and flavor that yeast can change in a mysterious way.
You can also add hops to the mash, or add hops when the kettle is full.
In theory, this can allow the oil that is discharged in the boiling to be oxidized to non-volatile things that are later reduced by yeast. Does it work? Maybe.
I did not test it strictly.
Hops resources you can find people\'s description of hops anywhere, but I like to go from the growers: yakima Chief hops are North American hops growing, developing, testing and distributing they list a lot of varieties, Haas Group is the world\'s largest distributor of hops and also has a good listing, but they don\'t use hops from New Zealand, and Yakima Chief has some proprietary varieties that are very popular.
Yeast is called pitching.
Legally speaking, yeast is the key to beer. It is the raw material of beer.
Once the yeast is hit, it goes from what you can sell to the child to what you can\'t sell to the child.
This is because of fermentation.
That is to say, when it is black and there is no oxygen, the yeast will eat sugar, discharge carbon dioxide, discharge alcohol, and discharge sulfur.
Now we know that this is a single cell fungus that converts sugar through its metabolic process, but fermentation is magical before microorganisms.
The prayer has been completed until God thinks it is appropriate to make a beer \"dance \"(
Live in wild yeast)
Then all the other pots full of beer are moved to the neighborhood so they can be taught (
Spread yeast through Air).
After a while, the beer was brewed with a magic wand;
This is a general tool for stirring and scraping, and is thrown into the fermenter to make it work.
This stick has a variety of convenient corners and gaps that allow yeast to hide between beers and produce a very consistent product.
Over time, debates about whether fermentation is a strict chemical process or a biological process have finally emerged, and microbial science has also developed.
This is another major requirement for something that exists because of beer.
There are also thermometers, cold storage and agriculture on this list.
What yeast?
Modern yeast is a monster.
It has been genetically adjusted and changed so much that it is hardly like a wild cousin and can create an amazing range of flavors and end products through argument.
There are hundreds of cultured yeast strains that do slightly different things depending on what you want, but they are sensitive things.
Temperature, yeast amount, sugar presence type, sugar presence, alcohol production, yeast age, oxygen content, and the shape of the fermenter have an impact on the work of the yeast.
Temperature may be the biggest factor at home.
So where do you start?
As before, I have some broad categories that make it easy to observe yeast, which are those that thrive in a warm environment
Ish environment, usually 16-
22C, ideal for room temperature without any additional equipment.
Beer yeast is fast to ferment, but often leaves sugar when brewing a stronger beer.
Their by-products range from tasteless to creamy and fruity.
The lower the temperature, the slower the process of producing cleaner products.
For these yeast, a rush can cause waste, which may taste \"hot\" and appley, but will decrease with age.
Beer yeast is those that thrive in a cool environment below 16C.
A lot of beer yeast you can get is actually not beer yeast, but beer yeast that simulates beer yeast.
True beer yeast is a completely different species and is hard to use at home.
Even these pseudo
Beer yeast requires special equipment to keep the fermenter cool.
They work slowly, eat more beer yeast sugar, have a higher alcohol content than beer, and can make a cleaner beer with a slight bite of sulfur.
It\'s a disaster unless they warm up.
Wheat beer like warm temperature> 20C and saisen yeast.
These are yeast for phenol. active;
Their fermentation causes phenol (surprise! )
Spicy and astringent.
The most typical phenol is a clove-flavored compound, but the flavor of bananas and bubble gum is also common.
If the fermentation is too hot,> 24C you can also develop smoke, medicinal and plastic flavors that will never leave your beer.
Wine, cider and distilled yeast are not what you want in beer.
They\'re a bad idea.
You can almost get away with apple cider yeast.
It would be better for me if you are not going to use wine and champagne yeast.
The liquid of distilled yeast is not suitable for drinking.
That\'s why it\'s distilled.
There are other things that can also ferment your beer, but they are mainly accidents that kill the finished product.
Wild yeast is a popular term for this and you will know if it exists because the fermenter smells and tastes like a bandband and magic mark, or poo.
Faster, stronger, tougher than the yeast you buy in your store, and won;
Don\'t leave by yourself.
Clean everything up, change it into a new hose and burn everything away.
How to buy this yeast?
Dry yeast is the cheapest and most durable yeast.
Similar to what you bought for bread making (
Don\'t make beer with this, you can, but don\'t).
The yeast packaging is kept for over a year and kept cool and complete, which is great. A single 11.
The 4g pack is enough to ferment the 20L batch, just spray it directly into the fermenter.
Some people say they want to re-hydrate.
I think this is a mistake.
The main thing is, the more yeast you deal with, the more chance you get to infect it, so if you can do less, then do it.
Secondly, if you want to re-
You need some warm wheat juice, not just sugar water, so that the yeast can adapt to its home, and will not waste its sugar reserves without growing.
Third, it\'s easier in a way.
The main drawback of dry yeast is that there are not many strains available.
You have to get wet if you want to like it.
The Smack pack is a liquid yeast starter with a pack of fragile combustion aids inside.
You pack (surprise! )
When you brew, let the package balloon go out.
If it does not expand, it will die.
There are more smack packs to choose from compared to dry yeast, but their shelf life is shortened and must be refrigerated.
There is enough in a smack bag to easily ferment 20L batches.
Liquid yeast enters the test tube from any strain that the laboratory may have.
There are many kinds, more jobs and more money.
The sample is small and intended to be used immediately.
Typically, you need to culture it into enough volume of yeast to ferment the 20L batch.
This basically means that you brew a small one a few days before you brew (1L)
Batch your test tubes in.
Is it too cheap to buy yeast?
It doesn\'t matter. You can harvest it yourself.
The foam at the top of the fermentation is called krausen and is mainly made of yeast.
You can grab this bubble and put it directly into the next batch.
The downside is that you are dealing with yeast and you need to brew a batch every 2 days or so to keep the chain running.
You can also harvest yeast from the bottom of your fermenter.
If you do this, take it down from the middle of the mass, the thing at the bottom is unhealthy yeast, first die, crud left in the brewing process, the above thing is yeast or small particles that don\'t get very good trivia.
Again, this means more processing, but you only need to brew once a week to keep the chain running.
It is really good to harvest your own yeast;
The collected yeast is suitable for your brewing practice, and the fermentation effect is better;
You can get a cleaner, drier and faster beer.
If you find something strange, you can also cultivate it and do your own genetic engineering.
Yeast Resource white lab is one of the twin giants of yeast library and pure culture, you can buy liquid yeast online through them
The other twin giant is sold in some homemade stores, and the main ingredient in charge of considering is water, mainly what you will use in the faucet.
Changing the mineral composition of your water is usually not something that a family winemaker does.
But so far you have put thousands of words worth reading in this area, so I\'ll show you.
What is important to my water?
Clean. Can you drink it?
Great, almost everything covered.
To do more, we have to adjust the chemicals dissolved in the water.
Typically, water adjustments are made to simulate the historical brewing area, stimulate yeast health, or adjust the pH of the water.
A lot of things can be dissolved in water, but the first problem in the city is chlorine.
Chlorine is not good for yeast.
It\'s not good for almost everything, that\'s why it\'s in the water.
If you can\'t smell the chlorine in the faucet, you may not be a problem, if you smell it, take enough water out for your beer and let it sit overnight, the chlorine will be released to an acceptable level
In terms of minerals, the key factor is salt, especially salt containing sulfuric acid, calcium, magnesium and sodium.
There are more things in hard water, and there are fewer things in soft water.
Sulfur makes the taste of beer fresher, and also makes the hops more obvious, especially in terms of bitter taste.
Too much sulfur, the hops are rough, and the water is eggy.
The sodium gives off the taste, but it becomes salty if there is too much.
Calcium and magnesium are important for yeast health, but can also be added to adjust pH down.
The chemists here may be hesitant about it.
\"But calcium and magnesium form positive ions!
\"I heard you say,\" Not only that, but they also helped buffer the solution! Bleh!
\"It\'s true, but they will continue to react with the phosphate, which you get from the malt and can net up the hydrogen ions.
So what can you do with this?
Not as much as you think.
Getting the latest hydrochemical readings at home requires equipment outside the brewing range;
If you ask, your city does provide a water report, which can give you an idea of the baseline.
In a homemade shop, you are most likely to find plaster (
Calcium sulfate), Epsom Salts (
Magnesium sulfate)
And calcium chloride.
Math using these can be found in the resource section here.
I\'m basically not worried about the water chemistry at home, but if you find that you\'re mysteriously unable to ferment all the sugar, or if your mashed potatoes can\'t produce enough sugar, it can be helpful to not find any obvious reason to adjust the water.
These are two different problems, but they have the same solution. more calcium.
Plaster is a safer option because you can tolerate a lot of sulfuric acid before they have a negative impact.
If your yeast is still not working properly, it is likely that you are short of zinc.
The problem is that you hardly need zinc, so add some galvanized pipes to your mashed tun or stir your stuff with a galvanized spoon.
Seriously, you need a little bit. Carbonation;
Breathe some life in it!
As I mentioned, the typical business process is to inject carbon dioxide directly into the finished beer to achieve the desired level of carbonated.
This is not a reasonable choice at home.
A lot of carbon dioxide is produced during the fermentation process, but there are also many other strange odor gases that are best made to produce them.
The problem is that we drink regular beer now.
Luckily, you can make more!
Initiation is the process of adding more sugar to a finished beer and allowing residual yeast in suspension to be converted into gas in a pressurized environment.
At this point, your beer is finished and you don\'t want to change it, so the choice of sugar should be 100% fermented.
The homemade store will sell you glucose at a high price, which is glucose sugar.
It works, it\'s completely fermented, but it\'s not your only option.
Grape syrup is also very good and so is sucrose
Fructose sugar, both are cheaper than glucose.
You can also buy pre-
Before you fill the sugar, you put it directly into the bottle.
Contrary to many of my attitudes, I think this is a good idea because it means not adding anything else to the fermenter and having a very consistent start-up rate on your packaging day.
If you want to change the nature of the beer a little, you can season it with plant syrup like coconut, maple or agave.
The malt extract, syrup, or dry is also good.
I don\'t think honey works very well, but you can try it.
If you really understand what you are doing with confidence in your measurements, you can add unfermented wheat Juice or beer that is in the process of fermentation, they are called speise and krausening respectively.
If you add the label directly to the bottle before filling, if you pretend with liquid that the whole volume of the fermenter is a large bottle, calculate how much you need, before you start the packaging run, directly inject the dose into the fermenter.
You can use something to help your beer, some to make it ferment better, and some to make it less confusing.
The most common is finings.
These reagents help to extract proteins from solutions and suspended solids to create a clearer beer.
In the kettle you can and should add a whirlpool, a seaweed-derived protein that can clear the wheat Juice for better fermentation.
If you are looking for a clearer beer and don\'t want to wait forever, you can use another fine;
Typical isinglass, which comes from dried fish sacs of Sturgeon, beluga and cod (surprise! ).
There are some vegetarian options made of yellow peas that also work.
In the end, I say, it\'s an aesthetic choice to drink yeast.
Sugar and spices previously mentioned by NiceWe, but these may not be one of the four essential ingredients of beer.
Some styles need it;
The Belgian must have orange peel and cattle ander in his mind.
Some of them are genius, vanilla because it\'s a good combination.
You can add a lot of honey to make a mixture called braggot.
There is no limit to what you can try to put in the kettle, as long as it is cooked.
Entering the brewery, you must feel comfortable that you will not infect the beer.
My only suggestion is to buy a brewing bag so you can easily take things out of the kettle and fermenter and try to make tinc agent for fermenter additives.
Resource brewing salt, from how to brew, this is a great book, made online for free with a simple calculator and style guide, summarizing the materials you need to start.
There are no recipes but now, only potential.
I\'m sticking to my words and I\'m not going to give you a specific recipe to do it, it\'s all a guide.
But I don\'t want to leave you alone.
You\'ll find some of the most popular beer-style guidelines here so you can brew something that can be identified, but the specifics depend on you.
This is by no means an exhaustive list, so there is nothing wrong with having fun.
As a bonus, at the end of all this, I will include some recipes that I have reduced myself to a size of 20L.
I do have some advice to keep the beer balanced: If you choose the high end of the malt, then choose the high end of the hops.
The high malt of the low hops is sweet, and the high malt of the low malt is sweet.
In general, the aroma of hops and the aroma of yeast do not work well with each other.
Spices and roasted grains are more effective than you think.
Cold fermentation if you can.
I have assumed that the 20L lot will be standard and will find that the overall efficiency is quite low.
It\'s just for caution that if you\'re more efficient then you\'ll get more beer.
I also assume that you will use all the jumps of about 10% alpha acids.
It\'s a big assumption that it doesn\'t matter for the additives that boil end and dry jump, but the boiling mid and the boiling start, if your jump is a very different percentage, just adjust with the straight line ratio.
There are a couple of terms that I haven\'t covered yet, but I\'ll cover them in the next section.
Total weight 3. 6-5. 3kg5-
About 40 lovibond0-8 % of special malt wine
About 20 lovibondremainder base maltsHopping 5% featured malt wine, any jump work of boil 0 started. 2-0.
Bit or double for 5g/L
Objective hopsMid to cook 0. 75-1.
3G/L aroma or double
Purpose of cooking 0 hopsEnd. 8-1.
Aroma of month g/L hopsDry monthly jump. 0-1.
0g/L aromatic wine flowers use beer yeast in a single infusion mud around 65-18 c
68CIndia pale alegrist total weight 4. 5-6. 5kg5-
About 40 lovibond0-8 % of special malt wine
About 20 lovibondremainder base maltsHopping has 5% specialty malts and tends to avoid the noble hope of boil 0. 5-1.
3G/L any hopsMid boil 0. 75-1.
Any hopsEnd of 3G/L boil 1. 2-2.
Aroma of G/L hopsDry jump month. 5-2.
64-18 c 0g/L of aroma hopsUse and ale yeast when single infusion of mud
The total weight is 3 kilograms. 3-4. 2kg6-
12% roasted malt
About 60 lovibond0-10 % of specialty malt wine
20 lovibond0-about 10% of specialty malt wine
5% of wheat or oats remaining base malt shopping tends to avoid starting boiling 0 in Australia/New Zealand. 6-1.
The bitsmid of 5g/L is boiled 0. 2-0.
Any hopsEnd of 8g/l boiling 0. 0-1.
0g/L beer yeast for any hopsUse at 67-
69CWheat BeerGristtotal heavy month. 0-4. 3kg30-
Wheat malt 60
5% of the specialty malt is around 20 lovibondremainder for basic malt shopping, and tends to avoid Australia/New Zealand and the United States starting to cook 0. 3-0.
Any hopsMid boil 5g/L of 0. 0-0.
6g/liter of boiled spices is 0. 0-1.
0g/LUse a wheat beer yeast with about 21 CStep under 50C, 66C or single infusion 66CImperial StoutsGristtotal weight 60-8. 0kg5-
20% roasted malt
About 60 lovibond0-10 % of specialty malt wine
About 40 lovibond0-10 % of special malt wine
20 lovibond0-about 10% of specialty malt wine
10% of oats or remaining wheat-based malt shopping tends to be boil sstart of boil 1 in the UK. 7-3.
Bitsend of cooking 0g/L. 5-1.
Any jump of 5g/L 0-0.
7g/L aromatic hopsUse ale or wheat beer yeast at 67-
69CDesign resource brew is one of many sites full of other people\'s recipes and fancy calculators that can handle a lot of data on designing beer.
It works in rice and Imperial and has a large selection of ingredients to choose from.
There are a lot of things on the site, so sometimes it runs a bit slow, but when I chose to use the tool, I used the Beer Judge Certification Program Brewtoad BJCP, it is an organization designed to provide an objective assessment of the comparison and competition of various beers.
There are a lot of categories with strict standards for quality for any given style, which makes some people resent, but for the starting point, it\'s good.
For each style, they also provide commercially available examples that they consider to be typical of categories.
Finally, collect the device and decide the recipe and now you can start buying the ingredients.
Are we clean?
Time to do some work.
The first step is cleaning.
Make sure all your equipment is scrubbed clean. -
Fill the kettle with water and heat it on the burner. -
Mix some sandze in your 20L barrel, soak your automatic siphon and air bubble and any hose you will be using.
Fill the spray bottle with hand sanitizer and soak in your now clean fermenter enough to leave a puddle at the bottom. -
Tilt the fermenter and roll so that all surfaces are covered with disinfectant before correcting again.
Leave it in the disinfectant. -
Weigh your malt liquor and the weight needed for the mill if applicable
Get the yeast ready, take it out of the fridge, put it at room temperature and put it in a safe place.
If you use the smack bag, hit your bag-
Put your mash/lauter tun somewhere in the high place with a pointed head hanging on the side so you can put your bucket under itGood, which leaves the housework out for the time being, we can start making more obvious portions of the brew.
I \'ve used the word a few times, but now you can do your mix and match.
This is the mud of water and grist, laying the foundation for beer by extracting the extract (surprise! )
Grist from you
Welcome to hybrid mode
When I tell you about the malt wine, I mention that the germination process produces enzymes and releases the starch in the grain for your later use.
This is behind.
In the end, you try to make food for yeast and turn it into alcohol.
The problem is that yeast is fairly simple and can only consume some simple sugar and small sugar chains.
Starch itself cannot be digested.
When you mash, you adjust the conditions of the water to specific pHs and temperatures that simulate grain growth.
In these specific collections, you are all able to activate specific enzymes that break down the target ingredient.
Your most important enzymes are alpha and beta-enzymes, which break down starch, but they break down starch in different ways at different windows.
It is important to emphasize something about enzymes here, they are not creatures, they are just very complex proteins.
This means that they cannot adapt to the changing environment.
They are actually very small robots that perform only one task when their programming triggers.
The cooler conditions than the activation points are good, the enzymes are waiting nearby, but the temperature exceeds their limit and you start cooking them.
So complicated and professional it\'s easy to break an enzyme like any cooking you can\'t cancel once it\'s cookedcook it.
If you are not confident about your temperature measurement, aim low.
Now back to the starch zone.
The first trigger is beta-starch.
As an enzyme, it targets the ends of starch and right-spin sugar and breaks them down into malt, the main sugar you get from malt (surprise! )
The favorite of yeast.
It is helpful to understand the sugar and starch here.
Sugar is a specific structure of carbon and oxygen and hydrogen, imagine that it is a small hexagon with marked vertices.
One of the vertices has a hook that allows it to connect to other sugar, and depending on the vertex of the hook on the sugar, it gets a different name.
A hexagonal sugar is called simple sugar, and the most you handle every day is glucose and fructose.
These simple sugars are linked together to form a chain, and a very small amount of simple sugar is just sugar.
As mentioned above, the two links of glucose or sucrose mentioned earlier, each link is a link of fructose and glucose.
They follow a very simple naming structure, three units of glucose are malt three sugar, four units of malt four sugar and so on.
In the end, you get enough links to stop being sugar, start being sugar, add enough links, hundreds of links, and you get starch.
Sometimes, starch or starch can also be connected to the middle of another chain to form a branch structure.
Because these are long chains or branches, they have only a few ends, making beta-starch a slow worker.
On the other hand, alpha-starch randomly cuts starch and right-spin sugar into small pieces of random size.
If there is enough time, alpha-starch will break everything down into glucose and a single link to the branch nexuse that those enzymes cannot adapt.
Mash usually does not last that long, so the alpha-starch produces a wide range of fermented and non-fermented sugar, made for a well-balanced beer.
Working with β-starch, you can quickly convert the starch into fermented sugar.
There is a pot of marsh here.
The window of β-starch is 55-
66C with efficiency of 64 C.
Beta-starch is destroyed at 70C and higher temperatures.
The window of α-starch is 66-
72C, with the best performance at 70C.
It\'s not ideal for these two people to work together, but don\'t despair.
The simplest trick-or-treat method is called single infusion.
In this form of mash, you take a break, that is, you choose a temperature that remains the same throughout the mash.
In order to get the best results, this is usually in 64-68C.
A single infusion takes a long time to rest, as both α and β-starch have some activity in this range, but neither is ideal.
Usually, a single infusion mud will be used about 2. 5-
3 kg of the water, 1 kg of the grist, the rest 60-
90 minutes before you continue.
Strengthen your mashup and you don\'t have to be content with the dim performance of the enzyme.
As long as you start at the lowest temperature, you can use a type called step-mash (surprise! ).
The simplest step-crushing form first targets the rest time of 64C, and then the alpha-starch rest time is the target at 69C.
The trick is how you can raise the temperature.
If you have a mashed kettle, you are golden, turn on the heating and laugh at all of us.
If you have just had mashed potatoes, you will most likely add hot water.
I use 2 when I make a step mix.
My 20-7 kg water to 1 kg grist
A 30-minute beta-starch break is reinforced by adding about 30% of boiling water to the mash and resting for 30 minutes.
Where the boiling water hits, you destroy some enzymes, but if you stir in, things will be solved.
Tiger eyes you can do more than two steps, you can do one step for every enzyme in malt if you want, but not all enzymes are always useful.
Here is a brief list of the steps you can take and their use.
If you choose to do multiple steps, if your water-to-grist ratio is much higher than 4:1, then know how much water you need and things start to get less good.
It is best to rest at 35C.
Plant enzymes decompose additional phosphorus from malt to help reduce the overall pH of malt. Beta-
The Portuguese enzyme is resting at 45 ℃. Beta-
Glucose breaks down gums in grains.
These are all jelly-like things that make it sticky and hard to flow.
Rye malt and oat malt will see the best results from including this break.
Ferrulic acid rest, preferably at 45 °c.
This is a strange break that produces a precursor compound that certain wheat beer yeast strains can turn into a unique clovey flavor.
There are only a few kinds of yeast that can benefit from it, but if you want to see it working, drink any beer produced by Unibroue.
Enzyme rest, preferably at 50C.
Like starch, proteins are long chains of peptides.
Peptin works for proteins, just as beta-starch works for starch.
Breaking down proteins into smaller pieces reduces the haze of beer and increases healthy yeast.
A large amount of protein in the mash will make your body hard, just like the gums.
This is mainly a problem when you use wheat malt.
Protease, preferably in 58C.
Alpha-amy analogs of protein.
Protein rest, preferably at 50-55C.
It\'s a combination break, like a infusion, trying to get some action from both protein-active enzymes, which is the way you most often encounter.
Limit the rest of the right-handed enzyme, preferably at 61C.
In the world where enzymes are manipulated in mash is a relatively new person.
This enzyme breaks the branch of starch that may occur, creating a new world and chain ends for other enzyme exploration. Is it needed?
Usually, barley malt does not have much starch, and it does help the taste.
But do you know there are many branches? Sticky rice.
If you are making a monster of sushi beer, you may get something good. Beta-
It is best to rest at 64C. Alpha-
Starch rest, preferably at 70 CMash, preferably at 78 °c.
There is no active enzyme here, which is the focus of the rest.
If you can, you destroy all the enzymes when you are satisfied with mashed potatoes so that there will be no change.
If you don\'t, Alpha.
The starch remained active for the rest of the process.
This is a good thing for home brewing though, so I tend to ignore this.
The power of the PHThe pH window is also important for the enzyme, although unlike the temperature, the enzyme bends instead of breaking when you exceed the best conditions.
Also, all of them have narrow windows and everything is within 5. 0-5. 8pH.
In extreme cases, β-starch benefits 5.
0pH, Alpha amy bias 5. 7.
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