brown oak dining table

I recently moved and my new restaurant is in the wrong shape for my current table so I decided to do it myself.
Then I will recycle my current table into the bathroom sink.
I thought of some design ideas when I wanted something different, but, as I watched the price of wood go up, I noticed that the wood shop had some brown oak, reasonable price sounds interesting.
Basically, the oak tree has been attacked by a fungus that stops once it is cut and dried, which makes the oak tree dark brown.
The resulting oak can have different patterns on a board, which makes it ideal for different tables.
I made some Speaker brackets a while ago, so I decided to make the legs similar to these because they look funky!
MaterialsI bought about 20 m (65ft)
200mm * 25mm (8\" x 1\")
Brown fever used about 2 m (6. 5ft)
200mm * 25mm (8\" x 1\")
()approx 50)
Stretcher board (12No)
I have a total of 9 planks and I spent a lot of huge oak planks in the wood shop.
The boards are about 2200mm (7. 2ft)
Long, the desktop will measure 1300mm x 1300mm (4. 2ft x 4. 2ft)
So I know that I can take all the wood out of the cut of the table board.
In order to get the right width of the table top, I need a total of 7 boards, so I arranged all 9 boards on the living room floor and arranged the best 7 in the order I wanted
Once happy, I mark the order and position of the board by drawing a Big V on the final configuration.
The boards are square on both sides, so I just need to square the thickness of the other thin side and all the boards to keep them the same.
I don\'t like to clamp all seven boards at the same time, so I decided to clamp them with three, and then one extra plate to make four and one Velcro.
Once these were all dry, I cleaned the seams, cleared any small steps between the boards with a scratch card, cut them into similar sizes, and marked the last cookie seam position
The last table top was too big to clip together in my workshop and to use my traditional clips.
I bought four window frame clip heads and you can fix them to 1 \"thick wood with bolts, so I used the planks that will eventually become the apron of the table.
The only place big enough is on the existing table, so I moved the two parts to my restaurant and clipped the last two together.
I want to have very funky legs so I made them with three main columns, the top and bottom are separated with smaller bits and there is a small curve in front.
After cutting all the main parts into a certain length, about. 750mm (30\")
, I marked a curve on one of the sections and cut the curve out with a band saw.
I then used it to transfer the curves to another leg and cut them off with a band saw.
Before gluing, I polish all the inner surfaces into 240 sand because I can\'t get to these easily in the future.
I decided to stick these parts together to make it easier for the glue to stick, and more pieces would be arranged better.
I they made 1 feet for each leg and it was just a rectangle with a 45 degree chamfer on each edge and then I fixed it on the leg with the nut insert at the bottom of the leg.
I then polish the rest of the unpolished face and apply a hard wax finish.
Since I want to keep the legs and the edge of the table 45 degrees, I need to fix the apron on my legs.
After considering various different ways, I decided to cut a \"v\" on the top of each leg so I could fix the frame together with pocket screws.
Once I cut all my legs and cut two pocket holes at each end of all the aprons, I also screwed them all into the dining room and screwed them all together
I was pleasantly surprised by the final rigidity of the frame, so I thought I made a good decision!
Now that the top is fixed together, I cut it into small size with a round saw and noticed the location of the cookie, so I didn\'t show anything on the exposed edge.
Then, I cleaned the edge with a straight dot in the router.
Since this is a table, I need to fill the holes with epoxy so they don\'t fill up with food etc.
After the epoxy was dry, I cleaned it up with a scraped card and a larger plane.
I then applied the underside of the top to 180 of the sand with sand and oil and installed the base as it was upside down.
I used a stretcher board with a slotted hole to accommodate the movement at the top.
I then spent hours polishing the table top to make sure it was perfectly polished using 80, 120, 180, 240, 320 and 400 sand.
Once the sand is ground, the last thing is to cheer.
I used the Osmo polyx, which is a hard wax oil and rated very well.
The finish looks very good, it is easy to apply, only two coats are required.
This table is much better than I originally thought, and it ends up being very flat and looks like a table. . . so very happy.
If you like my guide or find it helpful (or both)
Please vote for the furniture contest. Thanks!